tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-49939535313469325482024-02-19T04:24:05.431-08:00Adrian NelhamsAdrian Nelhamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00217987888642027655noreply@blogger.comBlogger219125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4993953531346932548.post-75239792026717075802017-11-17T01:30:00.002-08:002017-11-17T01:30:47.578-08:00ISM Virgin Summits Expedition 2017 Trip Report <!--[if !mso]>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Areas visited: Central At-Bashi Range, Kashkaratash
River Valley, Tien Shan also Tash Rabat and Son-Kul</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Trip
Leader: ISM Director and IFMGA Guide Adrian Nelhams (AN).<br />
Guides: Stuart McAleese (SM), Max Cole (MC), Alexei Potockiy (AP), Vladimir
Komissarov (VK). <br />
Climbers: Stephen Taylor (ST), Jason Sheldrake (JS), Richard Walker (RW), Mark
Aitken (MA), David Kennaway (DK), David Woods (DW), Ewan Jones (EJ), Tarni
Duhre (TD), Walter Robison (WR), Lisa Ferrero (LF).</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj193xMHHs1DszL4HUN33x522mwgyVtpZcb7NDcaaPwmtuhrInDr7tKNz9X8nWuPJiL-MvBXo7geckw8-73-b67HmOuoGC4L23Ge4PRECkrSc_Hr_WEi0ZbH6mhUJAX1kjRV-YlzYKmRWjc/s1600/DSC04064.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj193xMHHs1DszL4HUN33x522mwgyVtpZcb7NDcaaPwmtuhrInDr7tKNz9X8nWuPJiL-MvBXo7geckw8-73-b67HmOuoGC4L23Ge4PRECkrSc_Hr_WEi0ZbH6mhUJAX1kjRV-YlzYKmRWjc/s400/DSC04064.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">We all
arrived in Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan, situated in the North East of
Central Asia, bordered by Kazakhstan in the North, North-Western Tajikistan in
the South West, China in the South and East and Uzbekistan in the West.
Kyrgyzstan was part of the Soviet Union. In 1953 Stalin died and less than 2
months later Hillary and Tenzing summited Everest. Although both events were
un-related, they had a strong effect on the small group of Soviet Mountaineers
or al’pinisty as they were referred to in Russia. Two things had changed; the
first was that the monolithic Stalinist civilisation, which had extended to
leisure and sports, suddenly ended. The second being the first ascent of
Everest, which showed what was possible. Both these events re-focused minds to
possibilities within their own union. This not only led to new possibilities in
a climbing sense, but also opened up communication with mountaineers abroad.
The al’pinisty went from strength to strength, becoming known for their hard,
tough and committing first ascents around the globe.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Kyrgyzstan’s
mountain landscape was largely left unclimbed and the virgin summits and
valleys unexplored due to militarized zones close to the border of China.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">It was only in August 1991, when Kyrgyzstan declared its independence from
Moscow and a new democratic government was introduced, that western climbers
were allowed into many of these remote unexplored valleys and virgin summits.
Ever since this time ISM has very much been part of Kyrgyzstan’s mountaineering
and climbing history, running annual expeditions exploring the virgin summits
and rock climbing in little explored canyons and outcrops throughout the
country.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8dFLfru2IPiDhbqXSPRhch_tbVOf7Ic5xFYZYvKS0g5r6hqRufF4HzEXp1UfZuy9r2-l-y3-Q49jGEz7cJ0ilacldKFRMXBLFCCk4JMPVcsCuwFh1NU8hae0Z60VHnEHW2DoU384-RQQU/s1600/021A1461.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="826" data-original-width="1600" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8dFLfru2IPiDhbqXSPRhch_tbVOf7Ic5xFYZYvKS0g5r6hqRufF4HzEXp1UfZuy9r2-l-y3-Q49jGEz7cJ0ilacldKFRMXBLFCCk4JMPVcsCuwFh1NU8hae0Z60VHnEHW2DoU384-RQQU/s400/021A1461.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB; mso-no-proof: yes;"></span><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">We head
over to our operations provider and friends at ITMC to help finalise the
expedition, packing kit, food supplies and any last paperwork. A multitude of
maps pieced together with sellotape and pinned to the large ITMC office wall,
show well-thumbed routes into many of the mountain areas since ITMC was first
born in 1992. Next door, a multitude of small rocks and crystals collected on
many of the expeditions fill the shelves along with old books layered with
dust. Marmot skins hang up alongside leather horsewhips, old mountaineering
photos and traditional Kyrgyz swords. Old wooden skis and strap-on crampons
also clutter every inch of Vladimir’s office. The fabric of Vladimir’s office
oozes interest, exploration and adventure and add to the excitement of starting
this year’s ISM expedition. </span>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Vladimir
puts some water on a small camping stove and I sink into his sofa and watch it
boil. He sits on a small wooden milking stool and makes coffee. Before it has
brewed, he reaches into his cupboard, pulls out a clear glass bottle and pours
everyone a small shot of vodka. We toast the trip and ‘not for drinking, just
for health!’ We all mooch around the office taking it all in. We chat, relax
and catch up on families and then discuss the leaving time tomorrow. We are one
permit astray but that does not seem to be deterring from us leaving and
sorting it as we go. We finish our coffee and the minibus takes us into the
city for a walk around some of the historical sites and a peek into the
bustling markets for which Kyrgyzstan is so famous. We head back to the hotel to
relax before dinner and an early start the next day. The following morning we
load the remaining kit and head east out of the city away from the busy cars,
dust and noise and very quickly into fertile farmland of green fields framed by
the high peaks of the closest mountains of the Ala-Archa Range. Sitting high in
the 6WD Kamas I relax back into a sleepy state as we slowly head east along the
border of Kazakhstan.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL8ntZz5ARk0PebtdSnJHMH-xUSubXH36eAmlx7DK2pcGFGMF-cM12QKtkEevKZKvKA4qSUr_v9EQ_wVFKpv-BX0oPX7HfZW-yvNRDAB6Mo2XNGtgBIt97X6HbysONQMr_XJqDrz9Q9qY1/s1600/20170821-021A0375.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1068" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL8ntZz5ARk0PebtdSnJHMH-xUSubXH36eAmlx7DK2pcGFGMF-cM12QKtkEevKZKvKA4qSUr_v9EQ_wVFKpv-BX0oPX7HfZW-yvNRDAB6Mo2XNGtgBIt97X6HbysONQMr_XJqDrz9Q9qY1/s400/20170821-021A0375.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Suddenly,
I lunge forward in the seat and attempt to brace myself as the vehicle pulls up
and stops sharply. The noisy airbrakes hiss and as the dust settles, I pull the
grubby curtains to one side and squint into the bright sunlight recognising
instantly where we are. Street sellers at the roadside below and an array of
fruit and veg for sale. I open the door, climb down and go over to the sellers
who encourage me to taste something. I weave my way through brightly coloured
watermelons, grapes, apples, walnuts, peppers and other fruit and vegetables.
Everyone follows, tasting grapes and taking photos of our first interaction
with the Kyrgyz people outside of Bishkek. I buy bananas! We are on our way
south to the Tien Shan. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">We first
pass through Naryn, a major market town and branch of the ancient Silk Road
situated just north of the Torugart Pass (the border of Kyrgyzstan and China).
The town is named after the river that cuts a huge gorge through the middle,
its waters flowing over 800 kilometres from the Tien Shan Mountains west
through the Fergana Valley and into Uzbekistan. The Naryn River is the
longest and most important river in Kyrgyzstan and its source is the At-Bashi
Range in the Tien Shan Mountains which we’d come to explore. To get to the
central part of the At-Bashi Range and into the Kashkaratash Valley we leave
Naryn, continuing south towards the main frontier between Kyrgyzstan and China,
to a range of peaks called the Kokshal-Too in the Tien Shan Mountains. Two
great mountain ranges embrace over 90% of this beautiful country - The Tien
Shan Mountains, which stretch for 2,500km from east to west and the Tajik Pamir
Mountains, which spill into southern Kyrgyzstan. Over 30% of the country is
covered in permanent snow and ice. The Tien Shan host peaks such as Khan Tengri
(the Prince of Spirits) at 7,010m, and the highest peak Jengish Chokosu or Peak
Pobeda at 7,439m. In the Pamir, Peak Kuh-i-Garmo or Peak Lenin’s summit is
7,134m, which is one of the easier 7,000m summits in the world. Khan Tengri,
the second highest mountain in the Tien Shan is undoubtedly one of the most
beautiful peaks in the world. It’s a massive marble pyramid covered in snow and
ice, the kind of peak a young child would draw if you asked then to draw a
mountain! We can see these snowy high summits in the distance further south as
we pass the eastern end of the At-Bashi Range and start to head west along the
At-Bashi River valley which runs over 100km parallel to the main frontier west
to east.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHWC4OIirYwDQYEy1xp0RGQM5Cg7hgUH6FlG3k94l35Qc8L_imUNf3123-kzOhMT-oWbaudMOvuXVhShZlZr3zwG_Rz2NfkmqVpsQT1GbNA8rkSITTOVLgD7JBSXYqbcdzSUJDEpBVflsB/s1600/yert+-+Copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="751" data-original-width="1600" height="187" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHWC4OIirYwDQYEy1xp0RGQM5Cg7hgUH6FlG3k94l35Qc8L_imUNf3123-kzOhMT-oWbaudMOvuXVhShZlZr3zwG_Rz2NfkmqVpsQT1GbNA8rkSITTOVLgD7JBSXYqbcdzSUJDEpBVflsB/s400/yert+-+Copy.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">We pass
mountain pastures littered with brown rings of dead grass and ramshackle
livestock corals most of which have fallen into disrepair, with small walls of
dried horse dung left over from the previous tenant. A sign of the Kyrgyz nomad
where a yurt once stood and a family lived. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">The
Kyrgyz people owe their survival to their nomadic lifestyle, which has been key
for over 2,500 years. Yurts or felt tents acted as temporary homes while their
livestock roamed the mountains in search of food and water. Inside the Yurts
(bozuys) the circular walls are lined with bright, colourful felt rugs
depicting the changing seasons, the hunting of Marco Polo sheep and their
traditional way of life. The multi-fuel stove sits to one side with the chimney
snaking up and out of a small gap in the roof. Horses (akyns) or ‘the wings of
the Kyrgyz people’ are central to the Kyrgyz way of life – a friend, worker or
source of food. These horses allow the nomads to shepherd their flocks over
miles of remote grazing land in the Tien Shan, hunt, carry yurts and provide a
source of meat, leather and milk. Their national drink, kymyz or cumous is in
fact fermented mares milk. The nomadic people of Kyrgyzstan say ‘a man should
move, because the sun, animals, fish – everything moves and only the land and
dead creatures stay where they are’. Maps out, we pinpoint the Kashkaratash
River Valley and the vehicles start the serious bit of our off-road journey, up
and down grassy hillsides and over boulder-strewn riverbeds and into base camp.
Circling vultures with one standing as a guard on top a high flat grassy
terrace look down over the almost dry river bed as the truck in a low gear
creaks and groans its way over rough boulders and down into deep cut streams
which spring high waters once eroded. Then, in stark contrast to the blue sky
and our high spirits of adventure, a dead yak lies motionless in the middle of
the dry riverbed. His eyes wide open, but without expression stare up at us as
we drive by, the vulture on guard, also motionless, looks on and waits. His
huge wings ready to take off again and devour today’s kill. We arrive at what
looks like a great base camp, a confluence of two river valley systems but then
decide on a high grassy terrace directly below the Kashkaratash Glacier.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisP6v3fJ8RcYKZn881vnZWelrZfBuTwBcPrBCUWw9pFNX5mLZ3eR2CLIB8buMS3GvAKuN87PLqdXR0m0HhkbPipQa_igTu3JKFv-Nd7Qe_UNqmA16N842TquYWknyrs3QtlpWUqSrDXcdc/s1600/021A1737+-+Copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1040" data-original-width="1600" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisP6v3fJ8RcYKZn881vnZWelrZfBuTwBcPrBCUWw9pFNX5mLZ3eR2CLIB8buMS3GvAKuN87PLqdXR0m0HhkbPipQa_igTu3JKFv-Nd7Qe_UNqmA16N842TquYWknyrs3QtlpWUqSrDXcdc/s400/021A1737+-+Copy.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">We set up
base camp at 3680m and explore some of the unclimbed 4000m peaks close by,
which helps with acclimatisation and helps us to get a feel for the area and
our bearings.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">August
23rd AN, SM, LF, WR, DK climbed unclimbed Peak 4032m.<br />
The next day in better weather, we headed over to another cluster of 4000m
peaks. <br />
August 24th everyone climbed unclimbed Peak 4239m and MC, RW, MA, WR, LF, AP,
SM, TD, ST, DK & EJ climbed unclimbed Peak 4249m.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy64XHWf49HtUg7_9hHjhTeJ6yxfnhOej_3d_zldbZLfh2L9Jg0sP_Kh7G0z9UKgPzRBk_MoE36jX3CCcSL4KmdK33KWi3fG-DGi-D6K4uSRZaUWwzQVcAAGEtcCvclVLtoIBYeoUIC1KD/s1600/DSC04092+%25282%2529+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy64XHWf49HtUg7_9hHjhTeJ6yxfnhOej_3d_zldbZLfh2L9Jg0sP_Kh7G0z9UKgPzRBk_MoE36jX3CCcSL4KmdK33KWi3fG-DGi-D6K4uSRZaUWwzQVcAAGEtcCvclVLtoIBYeoUIC1KD/s400/DSC04092+%25282%2529+-+Copy.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">August
25th we headed up to below the Kashkaratash glacier and assembled an ABC.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">August
26th AN, ST, JS, DK, RW, SM, MA, MC, TD, EJ, AP, LF & WR all climbed
unclimbed Peak 4801m.<br />
Note: The expedition was led to believe that the highest summit in the range
indicated on the maps was actually 4788m. Peak 4788m is the summit at the
southern end of the 2km ridge and Peak 4801m, which we climbed, is at the
Northern end of that same ridge. It would indicate that the ISM team has now
climbed not only an unclimbed virgin summit with a GPS altitude ready of 4801m,
but the summit is now the highest summit known in the At-Bashi Range which is
fantastic. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Richard
Walker named Peak 4801m: Peak Rhianydd</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_WWhuofwiavoQZRTcm8ePcKVyXy0T0T60NxQgpl7YggjbFVihmsK608y3XShyphenhyphenxa8gC8D-rDdIwkQRArrBtIT9kR6E_pfiznzxFH1MbLBCt4AadFFbDnIbLhjmAI-ovBhZYqfLevbpa1xl/s1600/DSC04085+%25282%2529+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_WWhuofwiavoQZRTcm8ePcKVyXy0T0T60NxQgpl7YggjbFVihmsK608y3XShyphenhyphenxa8gC8D-rDdIwkQRArrBtIT9kR6E_pfiznzxFH1MbLBCt4AadFFbDnIbLhjmAI-ovBhZYqfLevbpa1xl/s400/DSC04085+%25282%2529+-+Copy.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">August
27th AN, ST, DK, JS, AP, LF & WR climbed Peak Arie Gabai 4530m via an
unclimbed south face via a notch in a rocky ridge guarding the snow ice face.
In addition, SM, MA, RW, MC, TD & EJ made the second ascent of the same
peak via the west ridge.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">VK &
DW climbed an unclimbed Peak 4612m via its west face and south ridge,
connecting both the peaks south and north summits.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">David
Woods named Peak 4612m: Peak Ordo.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">August
29th everyone climbed unclimbed Peak 4461m & MC, TD & EJ also climbed
Peak 4557m via a rocky south ridge.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Stephen
Taylor and Jason Sheldrake named Peak 4461m: Peak Volchitsa.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Tarni
Duhre and Ewan Jones named Peak 4557m: Peak Ata Babalar</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">August
30th we moved BC to another area to explore the possibilities for a future trip
and hopefully climb another unclimbed summit.<br />
August 31st we all climbed Peak 4516m and Peak 4536m at the head of the new
valley and glacial system we had come to visit. This gave us great views of all
the surrounding unclimbed summits and fantastic and inspiring possibilities for
a future trip.<br />
September 1st AN, SM, MC, ST, JS, RW, MA, DW, EJ and TD climbed Peak 4152m
which was located across the river,1km distance from our base camp.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDlys0YiVwoGPJi1ptxAWPcBqDUqTNtlps3m9GpJUGZYStntRPE4rvxanBaCBdCC4hgI6z0np9qOukvtJhAegaNV_3h5VCAhIzCEKdVaQO5qBh6a0eyoGYEQAYOoDnef3Ugt_mYmE8syj_/s1600/DSC04116+%25282%2529+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDlys0YiVwoGPJi1ptxAWPcBqDUqTNtlps3m9GpJUGZYStntRPE4rvxanBaCBdCC4hgI6z0np9qOukvtJhAegaNV_3h5VCAhIzCEKdVaQO5qBh6a0eyoGYEQAYOoDnef3Ugt_mYmE8syj_/s400/DSC04116+%25282%2529+-+Copy.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">We then
Headed to Tash Rabat.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">The Tien
Shan, which has been crossed for centuries by Silk Road traders, wandered along
by generations of nomads, and was the battleground of Genghis Khan and other
warring tribes, remains very much today as it was centuries ago. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Tash
Rabat, is one of the most important historical sites in Kyrgyzstan, and
provided a vital link to and from China, forming part of the Silk Road. The
fortified Caravanserai at the head of the valley was a safe house for passing
traders who would store their valuable silk safely overnight away from bandits
who would follow traders along the road. Money would change hands for a safe
passage through the valley and so it was the responsibility of the region to
keep the bandits out and the silk safe.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">These 7th
Century traders explored these parts making their way along the Silk Road,
which was once the richest trade routes in the world. Caravans of camels, men,
horses, silver, spices and silk travelled across the thousands of miles through
Kyrgyzstan to Uzbekistan, through Turkmenistan and Iraq onto the Mediterranean
Sea and then into Europe. Trade also passed through Kyrgyzstan and on to Greece
via Kazakhstan and Russia. We have visited Tash Rabat a number of times over
the years because apart from the historical element the valley is littered with
limestone ridges, faces and small peaks offering great climbing and first
ascents at all grades. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">September
2nd we climbed a number of rock routes low down in the valley and close to the
Tash Rabat River: <br />
‘Slab 1’, an unclimbed 3-pitch route, grade S (severe), climbed by MC, TD, EJ,
AN, ST, JS, DK, SM, RW & MA. <br />
‘Slab 2’, an unclimbed 2-pitch route, grade S (severe), climbed by SM, MA, MC,
TD & EJ. <br />
‘White Wall’, an unclimbed 3-pitch route, grade VD, climbed by SM, RW, MA. <br />
‘Slab and Groove’, an unclimbed 3-pitch route, grade S (severe), climbed by SM,
RW & MA. <br />
‘Chimney and Hole’, an unclimbed route soloed by our porters Alexey, Misha and
cook. <br />
‘Zig Zag’, an unclimbed 4-pitch route, grade HVS 5a, climbed by AN & ST. <br />
‘Chimney Groove’, an unclimbed 4-pitch route, grade HS, climbed by AP, LF &
WA.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">The next
day we left Tash Rabat and went to the beautiful region of Son-Kul. Pulling off
the main road at a small yurt camp, which sold locally caught dried fish,
fermented mares milk and dried cheese balls (kurut), We then travelled west, up
into the Son-Kul valley which connects the Son-Kul River and its source - the
very scenic high alpine lake of Son-Kul.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Velvet-looking
rolling hills, created by erosion and over grazing, look almost contoured as
millions of hooved feet over the decades have traversed them, feeding off the
sharp and prickly alpine grass, giving the hills a faint terraced look. These
hills separate deep valleys, craggy outcrops and steep limestone canyons.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">We arrive
and camp in Son-Kul Canyon.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">September
4th we climbed 4 rock routes in Son-Kul Canyon:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Route 1 –
10 pitch, grade VS climbed by SM, MA & DK. <br />
Route 2 – 10 pitch, grade HVS 5b, climbed by MC, TD & EJ. <br />
Route 3 – 10 pitch and 200m of short roping, grade HS, climbed by AP, LF &
WR. <br />
‘Jigsaw’ - 8 pitch, grade HVS 5a, climbed by AN, ST & JS.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">September
5th we drove back to Bishkek, stopping off at Kochkor for a participative and
highly entertaining demonstration of felt and rug making.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">September
6th we were hosted by Vladimir and his wife for a celebratory dinner, complete
with Kyrgyzstan traditional musicians. Vodka glasses were regularly chinking as
we toasted a fantastic trip and started crystallising plans for 2018!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">A special
thanks to Jason Sheldrake for all his stunning images again this year.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Safe Climbing </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Ade</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKbI476vNvxnosCEZroJvzMJwLeZ_I5SBrPWO5Q5OXFPq4MOGTvLYunmccjCOezWLpFtk6MMJG86JnuKPLe-1DYkCilEw0lgQY5zeIwDFKywaXtMHypA7Dt_8Z48F-L9NSHDj7fLw_fXQL/s1600/021A1663.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="940" data-original-width="1600" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKbI476vNvxnosCEZroJvzMJwLeZ_I5SBrPWO5Q5OXFPq4MOGTvLYunmccjCOezWLpFtk6MMJG86JnuKPLe-1DYkCilEw0lgQY5zeIwDFKywaXtMHypA7Dt_8Z48F-L9NSHDj7fLw_fXQL/s400/021A1663.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Adrian Nelhamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00217987888642027655noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4993953531346932548.post-37814859287383484322017-11-17T01:08:00.002-08:002017-11-17T01:08:42.269-08:00The Wild Side - my CLIMB magazine article<!--[if !mso]>
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-outline-level: 1;">
<b><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 16.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB; mso-font-kerning: 18.0pt;"></span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">I lean forward and look out the
window, the plane wing slightly obscures the view, but I see Mt Fairweather and
the whole of Glacial Bay National Park bordering BC and Alaska. A little later,
I see the huge snowy summit of Mt Logan (19545 ft) the second highest peak in </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">North </span><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">America. This huge massif sits like a gigantic
landlocked iceberg barely 50 miles from the Pacific Ocean and rises from the
largest icefield outside any polar region, 45,000 square miles of wilderness
marking the border between Alaska and the Yukon Territory. </span>
</div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Then, out of the cloud, I make
out the St Ellias Mountains and now the familiar summits in the Chugach State
Reserve just east of Anchorage. It’s like the wild Alaskan salmon retracing
their familiar journeys back to where new life begins. Their journey like mine
now, continues north of Anchorage, past Rosilla then Willow and onto to the
small Alaskan trading post that is Talkeetna on the edge of the Denali National
Park. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV9O0v_CieKRaLMb4z8Gk-xgNk-GuPi5k6yA2VcqLDLD9cei5zfEA2ZSbKcp7ntefAa3v5_J5zhz_D84fGbMr9K7yYyD4gRmbI79UFlmPJqc1sIZZfl9-8IRCwI1YBxlFZQLRFw9I2wt5g/s1600/19.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV9O0v_CieKRaLMb4z8Gk-xgNk-GuPi5k6yA2VcqLDLD9cei5zfEA2ZSbKcp7ntefAa3v5_J5zhz_D84fGbMr9K7yYyD4gRmbI79UFlmPJqc1sIZZfl9-8IRCwI1YBxlFZQLRFw9I2wt5g/s400/19.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">We turn right off the main
highway that continues north to Fairbanks, on to a dirt road following the
Alaska Pacific Railroad into Talkeetna, a main trading post built up around the
railroad and the Yukon Gold Rush. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">back in the late 1800’s an
estimated 100,000 miners and prospectors flooded both the Yukon and Klondike
valleys in search of their fortunes. Hysteria broke out as many arrived by
train and boat. Those who missed the last whistle that blew forced their way on
horseback and on foot, others even tried to cycle up frozen rivers as winter
locked everyone in – the gold rush was in full swing. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">In the early 1900’s, Nagley’s
general store was supplying the miners and trappers. The Fairview and Roadhouse
put a roof over their heads and fed and watered them. Today the store, with a
pair of huge Elk horns pinned above the door as you enter, is an eclectic mix
of dried-out fox furs, historic artefacts, gold panning kits, basic camping
kit, fishing equipment, tins of beans and other basic food stuffs, coffee and
takeaway liquor. I liked the sign outside the store saying ‘established before
most of you were born!’ The Roadhouse and Fairview Hotel still make up the
dusty centre of this cultural and artistic melting pot of a small town in the
‘Last Frontier’ - Talkeetna. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Over the years’ salmon fishing
and hunting has replaced almost all the mining and the village is the main
springboard for mountaineering activities in the Denarii National Park with the
Talkeetna airstrip only a 5 minute walk from Nagley’s. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">The Sestina River borders the
village’s western edge and dense silver birch forests fill in all the gaps between
the river, the few shops, guesthouses and private dwellings that link up the
narrow dirt pot-holed tracks. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">The historic buildings; old
airstrips; dilapidated float planes; rusting 1950’s trucks; the old bicycles
with flat, perished tyres, hung up in tree branches; the original Alaskan
Railroad carriages (now used as seasonal homes for workers and stray dogs); are
all interconnected by strips of dirt through the dense native woodland - and
act as a conduit to the history as you walk through town. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">The daylight is fading fast, but
I walk out to the western edge of town and stand on the bank of the Sustina
River to glimpse my first views of Denali and Mt Foraker - the largest peaks
that dominate the range. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">It’s great to be here again and
breathe in the cold, fresh spring air whilst listening to a woodpecker drumming
on a tree - possibly looking for dinner. I walk back into town and get a call
from Paul at Talkeetna Air Taxi “be ready first thing in the morning the
weather looks great”. I head back to the bunkhouse and do my last minute
packing making sure nothing is missed. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Our lift arrives just before dawn
and we load our assortment of gear into a beaten up old white dodge van and
head off to the airstrip. We weigh and tag everything, change into our
mountaineering clothing and wait. Paul arrives, checks over the ‘De Havilland
Beaver’ and fills it with fuel. We open the doors and load in all our kit. Then
I hear the familiar drone overhead as an early fight comes in from the Kahiltna
Glacier having dropped of a team heading for Mt McKinley. Last to go in is the
food, gas and the cooler bag of fresh meat that we collect from the fridge -
which I mustn’t forget this time! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Two years ago as we were dropped
off on a parallel glacier in the Kichatna’s and as the drone of the Beaver
faded to a silence, we both looked at each other with the same sickening
thought ‘we’ve forgotten to bring the meat!’ The winter had hung around ‘til
early spring, Talkeetna woke late and people were still clearing snow. The
airstrip was clear but the mounds of snow were reluctant to melt in the early
spring sun and were just melting in the day and refreezing at night. We dug our
meat into the snow to keep it fresh while we waited in the middle of a warm
day! As we stood in silence on the glacier 100 miles from Talkeetna, nobody
else just the two of us, enjoying the wild remoteness of the situation, the
warmth of sun on our faces, seeing in our minds the still frozen meat in the
pile of snow where we’d left it. Our morning bacon filled bagels and mince and
pasta meals that we had carefully planned turned to a dream over the proceeding
3 weeks! On day 2 of that trip, I received a text on the satellite phone –
“enjoying the meat, great BBQ, shame you couldn’t join us!” </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPxCWx9eRGJs3L1fJrtaeBSQbExhrBUPaOnWFa4Ka2Cg7IpvomXNyYqEgMuCjlp-efBqKP1pk00ckyIpssikAAFY9yjW75qwULWn1qnRPhgbCyB_XfOWmwoRs-ON9xs32JlD7MaqobnIBh/s1600/21.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1203" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPxCWx9eRGJs3L1fJrtaeBSQbExhrBUPaOnWFa4Ka2Cg7IpvomXNyYqEgMuCjlp-efBqKP1pk00ckyIpssikAAFY9yjW75qwULWn1qnRPhgbCyB_XfOWmwoRs-ON9xs32JlD7MaqobnIBh/s400/21.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Not this time I’d been more
careful loading our kit especially when it came to the food! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">With all our kit loaded and a net
secured over everything to keep it from moving around I struggled into one of
the four tiny seats on board, buckled in and put on the in-flight headphones.
Paul closed the doors started up the engine, received clearance from the small
control tower and the wheels started moving….we’re off. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">With the engines at almost full
tilt, we collected momentum and quickly took off leaving Talkeetna behind. The
birch pines below reduced in size and the river shrank to a stream, the
mountains ahead rose more clearly and we settled into the familiar drone as we
headed SW towards the Kichatna mountains. We fly over the flatlands, the
Kahiltna river and then on over the smaller outlying summits. Paul speaks
freely about Alaskan life in general, his time in Talkeetna and the surrounding
area. We ask general tourist questions viewing Denali and Foraker further north
and all the other peaks and glaciers that make up this six million acres of
wild landscape and high mountains. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Then I catch a glimpse of what we've come here for.....the tops of huge cathedral like granite </span><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">spires looming ahead. As we get
nearer, the sheer scale of these peaks and spires is apparent. The single
engine Beaver with all of us and our equipment in starts to get bounced around
on the winds and thermals being created by these huge granite towers. </span>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">I see a small black bird flying
across one of the huge faces, it looks so small and insignificant in comparison
to us and its surroundings. I then realise that it’s our own shadow coming in
and out of focus as we navigate our way through the high col’s and into the
heart of these impressive surroundings. We lose height quickly and circle a
couple of times getting a feel for the glacier below us and any rogue winds..
The next loop sees us diving down and hit the snow-covered glacier and
everything goes white. The snow settles and we’ve got a clear view ahead as
Paul kills the engine and we come to a stop. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">I look out of the window and even
with a crooked neck looking up, I can’t see the tops of these granite peaks.
Headphones off and doors open we jump out and into the snow covering the
Col-de-sac glacier. All the planning, time spent pondering over guidebooks and
pictures from previous trip and other expeditions and we’re here. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">We pull out all our equipment and
sling it to one side, slam the doors shut, shake hands with Paul as he wishes
up good luck. We move a little further away as he starts up the engine and
gives us a thumbs-up and the plane slowly gathers speed and lifts into the air.
Very quickly the plane and drone of the engine fades and we’re on our own. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">We take in our surroundings in
silence and then look at each other. It’s only now that we fully appreciate
both the beauty of these huge granite spires and the total remoteness of the
place we’d just been left in. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Looking down the glacier, the
waves in the otherwise smooth flat white snow, indicate the direction of the
wind pointing to the way the wind blew. These waves of pointed ripples rise
above the surface as the wind fills in the gaps and transports the snow around.
We probe the snowy glacier for crevasses and then pitch our tents in a safe
place facing backwards to the prevailing winds and hopefully the worst of any
weather that is driven through here. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">I look up at the large white
cornices rolling over the tops of these massive spires, which seem to protect
the Col-de-Sac. They look like waves and foam crashing over the top of the bow
of a huge ship crashing its way through one of the worst Pacific storms all
frozen in time. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">We put on our snow shoes and head
out for a recci and as we walk my emotions are caught up like walking through a
few strands of fine cobweb that cling to your face reminding me of my last
trip, last encounter and sense of belonging here in this beautiful granite
cathedral like area, huge, immense, wild and no less inspiring than the first
time I’d visited here. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">It’s getting dark and we settle
into the tents, which becomes a familiar routine over the next couple of weeks.
I then hear the first flakes of snow as each dry flake falls onto the tent’s
fly sheet and slides down the nylon and stops in silences as another then
another increasing in volume does exactly the same. I look outside and it’s now
snowing heavily. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Time passes slowly as I lay there
– warm and cocooned in my sleeping bag, drifting in and out of sleep, reading,
writing and melting water for brews. The constant cycle interspersed with an
occasional venture outside passes the day. I dream of the weeks ahead or of
times past, from life at home, the Alps, adventures and plans forming ahead. I
have enough time to strip it all back and decide if the path taken is the right
one. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">I turn on the satellite device -
67% charged. I get an updated forecast. It predicts the same weather for
tomorrow - 100% cloud cover, snow and strong winds. I can hear the wind howling
through the gaps in the huge granite towers. No sun for another 30 hours at
least so I need to be stringent with the satellite device. I turn it off for
today and hope for some sun, both to charge some life into the device and me
also, so that when the weather does clear I’m able to be motivated to do
something. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">This slumber is both debilitating
but also good for recharging after a busy 6 months. As soon as you stop your
body shuts down. I’m keen to get moving again. Another gale hammers the tent
threatening to rip it from its footings, I summon the energy to get outside and
check that everything is OK. The snow continues and time at BC passes. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">I fill the pan with fresh, white,
soft snow, it’s like candy floss, so light and fluffy, I can see each snow
flake from where it’s fallen from the sky and as it melts I watch each flake
shrivel up and disappear into the water. I do this with four mountains of
scooped snow before I’ve made enough water for tea. I sit back, zip up the
inner, get back inside my sleeping bag and relax to the sound of the gas stove
roaring and outside the sound of silence. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">The water’s boiling, I turn off
the gas and pour the water into some maple and sugar porridge mix and make a
brew. The tea tastes good as I start to while away the hours. Four day-old
mountain socks hang inside out from a small makeshift airer, a pair of spare
laces strung across the roof inside the tent. My damp mountain trousers share
the same space filling the centre of the tent, suspended a foot off my sleeping
mat. Lighter sunglasses, toilet roll and other belongings all share a space in
the net pocket at one end of the tent. My headlamp, book and note pad at the
other. In the front corner of the groundsheet, a pile of used tea bags, tissues
and Cliff bar wrappers are starting to build in size. Under my Thermarest a
foam mat gives me both more insulation from the frozen glacier below and also
keeps the damp at bay. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Damp patches are showing through
the dog-eared ground sheet that once used to repel even the worst conditions.
Expedition climbing is hard on kit and many trips spent camping on moraine in the
Tien Shan’s Pamir mountains over the years has taken its toll on what was once
a great tent. I bang the side to release yet more snow and make another brew.
It’s amazing how much snow you need to make a brew! I’m brought back to
consciousness from the excessive heat I now feel inside the tent. I open my
eyes and squint at the light being thrown around reflecting off the inside
orange and yellow nylon tent sides. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">I lay still and I can’t hear
anything, no wind flapping the loose nylon and threatening to rip it from its
moorings and no sprinkling of light snow sound hitting the tent, slowly
building on the flysheet and then sliding as a huge lump to the ground when
weight and gravity meet and the smooth nylon fly gives in. Then I hear a
distant raven squawking as if to say wake up it’s over, the storm has finished
and come and enjoy the better weather. </span></div>
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still in the warmth and comfort of my sleeping bag, and unzip the inner
door of the tent, then lean through to the outer door and unzip this to expose
the new day. </span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNd2IUodQeoqCn9qJTQymDSeFoX0i4hdBs6mNKXmu832qwpY7qQfkd06RSbIysWf6Qkj23VjcTpFzLub_3DFn9z_OOZbMz5cGMCra4uN8PNi32F9OF899Yrtdf_Dn6MeIc6Bbmzs77L0Sr/s1600/steep+mixed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNd2IUodQeoqCn9qJTQymDSeFoX0i4hdBs6mNKXmu832qwpY7qQfkd06RSbIysWf6Qkj23VjcTpFzLub_3DFn9z_OOZbMz5cGMCra4uN8PNi32F9OF899Yrtdf_Dn6MeIc6Bbmzs77L0Sr/s640/steep+mixed.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Bright sunshine floods in and I
see blue sky. I look north and the peaks are free of cloud and in a backdrop of
deep blue sky. The peaks themselves are pristine white and covered in the last
week’s new snow. Everything is clean, bright and beautiful. All the ridge
lines, rock faces, glaciers and hanging icefalls stand out in the new picture
that’s recently been painted. </span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">I look south and see some cloud
caught up amongst the great cathedrals but I feel it’s our day. I put last
night’s melted snow in the pan to boil and start getting myself organised. Ice
axes, crampons, harness, rope, waterproofs, warm duvet, spare gloves and hat,
some food and drink. The water’s boiling and I make a flask of hot tea. I knock
back some instant porridge – today I go for bananas and cream plus the maple
and brown sugar! I start lacing my double boots. The inners still warm from
being inside my sleeping bag last night and the outers stiff from being in the
tent porch standing on snow overnight. I step outside, zip up the tent behind
me and climb out of the snowdrift I’d been buried in and stand on top of the
glacier. </span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj35BvMtVEZRT7f75GxHMdVrT9-V94IdAi8umJa0qyP2PFOmfJF8syIkKSZmXYrcJ4032vB06TLe0WdOMDYtXgwIn0NDvYoBPDwx6HBsViz1VpDvjVEGWVj_1nfIxNO8dtyMzKs8CgUOD4Y/s1600/20.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj35BvMtVEZRT7f75GxHMdVrT9-V94IdAi8umJa0qyP2PFOmfJF8syIkKSZmXYrcJ4032vB06TLe0WdOMDYtXgwIn0NDvYoBPDwx6HBsViz1VpDvjVEGWVj_1nfIxNO8dtyMzKs8CgUOD4Y/s400/20.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">We pull ourselves together and
sort the rope and put on our snowshoes in silence. The excitement is building
up inside knowing that after 7 days of lock down today’s our day. The snow’s
frozen hard and the sun is now basking the granite tops in bright sunlight. The
steep gullies of gleaming white snow seem to be gluing the granite pillars
together. We set off up the glacier and head towards one of these welded snow
and ice lines perfectly parallel to the sides of two huge granite cathedrals.
The bottom, a white fan of fresh deep snow makes it slow progress as we wade to
where the angle steepens. Snow shoes off and crampons on, as we start to kick
into ever steepening ground and snow gives away to neve. Like a metronome</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">I kick in step after step and the squeak under my
crampons, the sunlight, white snow and surroundings make me smile. I feel my
body stretching out after days of inactivity cocooned in sleeping bag and tent,
but now they are just memories. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">I get out
a second ice axe as the snow steepens again and I can feel ice under the picks.
I start actually pulling on my tools and picking foot placements with my front
point as I move high into the gulley. I place an ice screw and continue on.
We’re moving together now high up in this beautiful cathedral-like place doing
what we love doing, feeling alive and at one with everything around us. A steep
ice pillar slows me to stop and I belay. My partner comes up and I can see his
breath in the cold morning air, he looks and smiles. ….. ‘you’ve gotta love the
Kichatna’s!’ </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Safe climbing </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Ade</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
Adrian Nelhamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00217987888642027655noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4993953531346932548.post-59818696563028298452017-11-17T00:40:00.005-08:002017-11-17T00:40:40.209-08:00Alpine Ice Climbing <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-outline-level: 1;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">As the
autumn leaves fall, the days shorten and the temperature drops. Streams slow
down, any precipitation falls as snow, blanketing the mountainside and streaks
of blue- white ice start to form, marking out potential lines for the coming
season. </span>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">These complex,
intricate structures of crystalized ice build over time as the temperature
continues to fall. It needs to be a gradual process and it’s at this point we
start to tune into what’s going on in the Alps. A plummet in temperature for a
week and the ice stops building, the ice may look great but there’s no
structure to it. It’s brittle and has little to support itself. If it stays
brutally cold, then perhaps the lower venues, where it’s a few degrees warmer
will start to come good. Too warm for too long, then it’s a late bloomer with
many of the lower venues possibly not even forming at all and climbing at a
high venue where it’s colder is key. A dry autumn with no snow means it could
be a lean season with little seepage and only the main water courses coming
into condition early on. Early snow may offer a good feed to many of the ice
routes if you get a good melt-freeze cycle of weather.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Every
season is different and that’s what makes climbing the frozen waterfalls so
special. Conditions change year to year and even day to day, so understanding
how the ice has been formed, what the weather has been like over the past weeks
before you head out and what’s going on in the ‘here and now’ is key.
Temperature is the biggest factor to the quality of ice and how safe the
icefall is. Be mindful also of the snow that’s built up on slopes above the
icefall. The sun impacting that snow, the wind that cross-loads any bowls or
gullies you may be climbing, both before and on that day. Don’t plan too far
ahead, but follow the weather and conditions and see how the ice is forming
during this season.</span></div>
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in the world is there anywhere like the Alps, with the number of options to
climb at high or low altitude, climb in the sun, in the shade….the options are
endless. It’s these options, the past weather and the current forecast that
means we can climb the best ice in the safest environment. </span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Options</span></b><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Cogne in
Northern Italy close to Aosta – is one of the premier ice climbing venues in
the world. The routes in Valnontey and Valaille are at a relatively high
altitude for valley based ice climbing. The climbing is fantastic during any
season with routes at all levels of ability and grade, with many of them
multi-pitch in length and having an adventurous and mountain feel about them.
If the Alps is going through a warm spell or the season is a late bloomer then
Cogne can be a great place to head towards. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Having
said that it’s been super busy this past few years because of the reasons above
and you need to be very careful both of the ice, snow and also of people
climbing around you. Get an early start, don’t climb under other climbers and
be prepared to walk on to another icefall where there may be fewer people – be
flexible in your approach and planning.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Close to
Cogne is the valley of Valsavarenche, again another high venue with some great
routes at all levels and possibly a little quieter. Planning a day or two in
Valsavarenche if you’re based in Cogne could get you away from the crowds.</span></div>
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brutally cold in Cogne then head down to lower venues in the Aosta valley and
surrounding smaller valleys.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">One such
area is Ollomont, nestled under the slopes of the Grand Combin on the Italian
side of the range. It’s a lovely little area that boasts some great multi-pitch
climbing with a good spread of grades.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Also
further south down the Aosta valley is the Italian village of Gressoney, known
mostly for it’s fantastic off-piste skiing but it also has a great range of ice
routes, all very accessible, many multi-pitch and again a good spread of
grades.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">If you’re
on the Swiss side of the range, then just over the Grand St Bernard pass is the
Val de Bagnes and Fionnay and further up the valley Mauvoisin. Fionnay has a
small spread of routes in the middle to high grade range, which often form and
are at the gateway to Mauvoisin which is world class when in condition.
Mauvoisin is affected by snow which can make many of the routes inaccessible or
unsafe, but get it right and the rewards are great.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Further
up the Rhone valley is the Valle d’Herrens which leads up to Evolene and on
further up to Arolla. Once up in Evolene the valley opens out and has a great
selection of routes at all grades and during warm weather gets better as you
ascend to Arolla, which like Cogne is a high venue. Arolla is no match for
Cogne but has a good spread of routes worthy of a few days climbing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Parallel
to the Arolla valley but further East is the Val d’Annivers. This again is a
high venue and great for when the Alps is going through a warm spell. The ice
always forms here and there are a number of very nice multi-pitch routes in the
middle grade range. The area does suffer if there’s been heavy snow, but it’s
certainly a great option if other venues lower down haven’t formed well. I have
been here though when it’s been cold and it can get really cold and the ice can
be very brittle, so leave this high venue and head down the valley.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Through
the tunnel on the other side of the Rhone valley will give you access to
Kandersteg, which is another world class venue and one of my favourite places
to ice climb in the Alps. It’s relatively low in altitude (around 1100m -
whereas Cogne is up to 2100m) but offers long multi-pitch routes with the
climbing from middle to the harder end of the grade range. Much of the climbing
is also free from exposed slopes so can be very safe if you there is a spell of
heavy snow. Having said that, as with any venue snow does build up on any route
in between </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">The Alps
is an incredible place to ice climb with many options. If you plan ahead you
can have a fun, safe time. I’ve listed literally just a handful of the main
venues in the Alps but don’t get locked into any one single venue, be flexible
and you’ll have a great time.</span></div>
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climbing</span><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Adrian </span><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"></span></div>
Adrian Nelhamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00217987888642027655noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4993953531346932548.post-28813673761598793132016-09-14T04:12:00.001-07:002016-09-14T04:17:30.823-07:00Kyrgyzstan Virgin Summits Expedition 2016<br />
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Kyrgyzstan (Pamirs) Virgin Summits Expedition 2016</span></b></span></div>
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Leader, ISM Director and IFMGA Guide Adrian Nelhams (AN) </span></span></div>
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</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Guides
Paulo Intropido (PI), Paul Swail (PS) and Vladimir Komissarov (VK) </span></span>
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</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Climbers
– Stephen Taylor (ST), Jason Sheldrake (JS), Will Boxall (WB), Rob Meijer (RM),
Marc Lambert (ML), Finlay Shaw (FS), Rob Maysh (RMy), Justin Mash (JM), James
Robinson (JR)</span></span><br />
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visited – The Eastern Zaalay Range at the Eastern end of the Trans Alai Range. </span></span></div>
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flights via Istanbul into Osh, the second largest city in Kyrgyzstan. The city
is located in the Fergana Valley and is often referred to as the ‘Capital of
the South’. The city dates back over 3000 years ago and is located close to the
borders of China, Tajikistan and Uzbekistan which is where it gets its
ethnically mixed population of over a quarter of a million people. Osh </span><span class="st"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">marks the midpoint on the historic
ancient </span></span><i><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Silk
Road</span></i><span class="st"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">, the overland
trade route taken by caravans between Europe and Asia and is home to the
sprawling Osh ‘Silk Road Bazaar’ which bears the hallmark of that bygone era and
is the largest, most crowded outdoor market in Central Asia and a great place
to hang out!</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span class="st"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">We spend the
day in Osh while the ITMC team head to the markets to buy the final fresh
foodstuffs before we head off into the mountains the following day.</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">
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only </span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">World Heritage Site in
Kyrgyzstan, the Sulayman Mountain, which offers great views of Osh and the
surrounding mountains. This mountain is thought by some to be the famous
landmark of antiquity known as the “Stone Tower”, which Claudius Ptolemy wrote
about in his famous work Geography. The National Historical and Archaeological
Museum Complex Sulayman is carved into the mountain and contains a collection
of archaeological, geological and historical finds. Then we hit the markets!</span></span><br />
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our bags into the ITMC 6WD Kamaz truck and headed south to the small hamlet of
Taldyk. Here we camped and recci’d the rocky limestone summits of Urch Terbur
both for climbing possibilities and to help with everyone’s acclimatisation as
Base Camp (BC) will be around 3500/3600m</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">The next day we headed on
through the small border town of Sarytash and on to the hilly grasslands and
foothills of the Pamir Mountains and towards the Eastern Zaalay Range where we
had come to explore. Great views on the way over the pass to PK Lenin 7,134m in
the Western Zaalay, Trans Alai Range a little further west.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">We passed the river delta,
which fed down from the glaciers and summits we explored last year and carried
on another 11km to the Kurumdy River. Here we drove up its wide delta with the
truck forcing its way through fast moving rivers, over rocks and up steep banks
until we found a lovely flat grassy area next to a clean water supply on the
west bank of the river at 3600m which became BC. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">The following day we went off
in three teams to explore the surrounding valleys and glaciers. It’s such a
beautiful area of high peaks in a very quiet but accessible part of the Pamir
Range. During this first day of forays, one team found a great Advanced Base
Camp (ABC) at 4000 m, which would access a few great looking summits over the
coming days, so on day 3 we all headed up into this high alpine basin to
explore the surrounding summits.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">We climbed – </span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">
</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">PK 4318m we named ‘PK Curperluk’
(Kyrgyz for ‘Butterfly’) </span></span>
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</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">Climbers – AN, RM, JM, JR,
JS, VK, WS</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">PK 4629m we named ‘PK Tereze’
(Kyrgyz for ‘Window’)</span></span></div>
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</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">Climbers – PI, PS, RMy, FS,
ML, ST, RM</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">PK 4736m we named ‘PK Chogurlush’
(Kyrgyz for ‘Coming Together’) </span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">
</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">Climbers - AN, RM, JM, JR,
JS, RMy, FS, PI, PS, ML, ST</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The
team then headed back to BC for a much needed rest and wash before heading out
on another recci day but this time in another parallel valley and main
glacier/drainage system into the Karumdy River. We established a second and
third ABC to explore this huge glaciated valley. ABC 1 was established at 3850m
and ABC 2 at 4100m.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We
had our eyes set on a number of options which included a couple of peaks on the
East side of the valley and a couple to the South, all with slightly different
access and possible routes on them, hence the different ABC options and attack
points. The following day it snowed heavily although both teams went out to explore
the various options and peaks close to them. High points were achieved but poor
visibility and heavy snow stopped progress. That night the cloud cleared, the
wind died down and it was a beautiful starry </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">night.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The
following day both teams had success on their peaks –</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">
</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">PK 4760m we named ‘PK Kanzaada’
(Kyrgyz for ‘The Prince’)</span></span>
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</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">Climbers – AN, JM, JS, JR</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">PK 4685m - <b>we have asked
the listeners of BBC Radio Cumbria to name this peak.</b></span></span></div>
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</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">Climbers – PI, FS, RMy, RM</span></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">
</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">(The team first climbed ‘PK Jolborz’ 4624m FA - AN, ST, DR, BT in
2015 to access the connecting ridge to this summit)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The
next day we broke camp, loaded the vehicle and headed out of the main range,
back through the town of Sarytash and towards Taldyk where we camped the night.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The
following day we travelled up into the limestone crags and boulders of Urch
Terbur for some rock climbing and bouldering….a very refreshing change from
being in the high mountains! The warmer weather and lower altitude made for a
fun day climbing and last active day on the expedition.</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">That
night we continued 2 km to a small village called Kyrkol where we stopped at
the Alai Yurt Camp. Here everyone had the chance to sleep in a traditional
yurt, taste some traditional Kyrgyz cuisine and enjoy some local Kyrgyz music
both through the storytelling from the Manas script and some incredible
strumming on the Komuz both over the shoulder, between the knees and upside
down….! It was a great night, which rounded off a fantastic trip.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The
last day on the way back to Osh we stopped at a small shop selling Kyrgyz felt
goods. We had fun buying things and hoped this helped to give something back to
the local community as a group of women had recently set up this small working
co-operative selling their handmade felt goods. I am sure we will be part of
their advertising in the future!</span><br />
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</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Thanks
to Sasha our driver for getting us into base camp, Artur our cook, for some
fantastic culinary delights and our two porters Mika and Pasha for helping with
some heavy loads up to advanced base camp. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> </span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">
</span><br />
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A fantastic trip....already making plans for next year!</span>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Safe climbing</span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Adrian
Nelhams </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Images <span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">courtesy of Jason Sheldrake - many thanks</span></span>Adrian Nelhamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00217987888642027655noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4993953531346932548.post-31516277300175972872016-08-18T01:47:00.005-07:002016-08-18T01:47:50.375-07:00<h2 class="entry-title">
My article as part of the Arcteryx Lakeland Revival......</h2>
<h1 class="entry-title">
Why we love British trad climbing!</h1>
British Mountain Guide and Lakes local Adrian Nelhams tell us what
he loves about British trad and his approach to going climbing…<br />
<hr />
“I approach a crag or climb as I always have done, through
aesthetics, grade, word of mouth and adventure. I’ve got to like the
look of the splitter crack, the barrelling steep overhanging wall, the
pocketed face or the exposed delicate slabs. Climbing is so much more
than just a sequence of delicate moves, burly under-clings or hands
jammed in an awkward off width. It’s the journey to get there, the
friends you’re with, the shared experiences and the adventures along the
way – that’s why we love British Trad climbing!<br />
<br />
<img alt="Arcteryx_lakeland_revival" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-342" height="452" src="https://arcteryxlakelandrevival.files.wordpress.com/2016/07/2_credit-adrian-nelhams-and-marko-prezelj.jpg?w=662&h=470" width="640" /><br />
Photo credit: Adrian Nelhams and Marko Prezelj<br />
<hr />
Almost throw away your guidebook for the day and just go out and
enjoy the adventure that is British Trad Climbing. The grade isn’t
important, without the guidebook you won’t know the grade anyway and it
won’t matter. If you’ve not been there before everything will feel more
exciting and adventurous. The routes will feel harder, mentally, you’ll
be more challenged and you’ll come away with the riches that climbing
has to offer. It’s easy to go to the ‘known’ but by doing so it’s also
easy to lessen the overall experience and adventure.<br />
<hr />
The Arc’teryx Lakeland Revival is great because it understands
the grass roots nature of what we all love about Trad Climbing. The
route cards will help inspire and give many people the confidence to try
somewhere new. A new crag or route that may not have been climbed for a
while but is still a real classic may be lost in this modern era of
sport climbing. These gems once unearthed will become classics for many
in the future. The more open you are to try something new, doing
something different and pushing yourself that bit harder, the richer the
experience.<br />
<hr />
I had great day last year guiding a client in the Lakes. The
weather was wet but we still decided to head out and try some climbing.
The client was relatively new to the game that is Trad climbing and we
ended up on Gimmer Crag in the pouring rain. Waterproofs on and hoods up
we were enjoying the solitude, adventure and seriousness of climbing
the wet slippery rock in the rain. The cloud was swirling around and the
rain was constant but we pushed on. The climbing, even for me, was
totally absorbing. I was aware of every feature the rock was gifting,
careful with every foot placement and timely with every upward move so
not to upset my delicate balance on the wet rock. Our ascent was slow
but so rewarding. We were becoming more and more involved and excited by
the feeling of adventure. I was soaked through, as was my client. We
had the crux on the next pitch, 2 pitches up Gimmer. I set off up the
wet rock, which was now under a torrent of running water. It felt more
slippery than ever and I was mindful of every move, holding on more
tightly than I would normally, my feet slipping on the slabby rock. I
reached up the overhanging wall, found a good in-cut hold and pulled on
it. My feet became light on the slippery slab and started to slip. I
quickly pulled up on the hold and my feet left the ground. I felt a
foothold out of sight which helped as an intermediate until I reached
higher and found better handholds. It felt steep and overhanging. I
could hardly see for the rain and running water in my face. I clipped
off another nut, hung a sling for my client and pulled up and on to
easier ground. I made a belay and brought up my client. She was glad of
the sling! We topped out late in the day when it was almost getting
dark. It was the end of March and had been one of the best days climbing
I’d done with a client that year. The client was hooked and we’d only
climbed a VD! It wasn’t just the climbing; it was the spirit that
underpinned the experience. We’d climbed three routes that day, nothing
above VD and had a real adventure, everything that a harder route in the
dry would offer and possibly more! That shared experience has seen us
climbing together on many occasions since then and we still joke about
it now.<br />
<br />
<img alt="arcteryx_lakeland_revival" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-343" height="425" src="https://arcteryxlakelandrevival.files.wordpress.com/2016/07/katy_chris_descent_jordan_manley.jpg?w=662&h=441" width="640" /><br />
Photo: Jordan Manley<br />
<hr />
Climbing in the rain isn’t for everyone, but it brought us the
riches on that day, memories that will stay with us and our minds full
of Rigby, Sandison and Thomson who made the first ascent in 1902. It was
probably the sort of adventure they were having but in hobnail boots
and ropes tied around their waists….I bet it felt adventurous edging
their way up that chimney pitch back then! It’s the journey you take
that gives you those memories and if you keep taking new ones you’ll
grow as a climber and also get the rewards that British Trad climbing
has to give.<br />
<hr />
April 1907 – Crescent Climb on Pavey Arc. FA Botterill and Palmer
‘starting only a few yards right of green gully, we climbed over grass
and loose material until we reached a little pitch which was awkward
owing to its rotten state. About this time, to make matters worse, we
were visited by a storm with thunder and lightning. It was impossible to
take shelter, so we proceeded in the rain to a point where the gully
finished out on the face. So far the climb had every appearance of being
a first ascent…….’ Fred Botterill, F&RCC Journal 1907.<br />
<hr />
Check out the route cards and try something new, and if you want
an even greater adventure either visit a new crag and leave your
guidebook at home or climb an easy route in the rain!<br />
<hr />
Safe climbing<br />
Adrian”Adrian Nelhamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00217987888642027655noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4993953531346932548.post-20365148039405260402015-11-16T06:22:00.000-08:002015-11-16T06:22:02.901-08:00Kalymnos....a sport climbing mecca<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Back in 1996, by chance, an
Italian climber by the name of Andrea Di Bari visited Kalymnos on holiday.
Andrea stood in awe as he drove around the island looking at the beautiful
limestone walls and caves festooned with stalactites and tufas. Andrea
immediately understood the massive potential of the climbing on Kalymnos and
that this was going to be world class.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Andrea returned in May 1997
with friends and ‘put up’ over 40 bolted, now classic, sport routes in sectors
such as Arhi, Odyssey and Poets. So excited about the climbing on Kalymnos and
its potential, Andrea with Andrea Gallo, friend and photographer (working for
Alp magazine at the time) returned later that same year. They both continued to
put up new bolted sport routes, but this time they didn’t just go back with
memories and a few holiday snaps, they went home with inspiring photos which
they published with an article in Alp magazine and Rotpunkt, a German climbing magazine. The floodgates opened!</span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieRXVZ0K4YDObXUFgNdc2QKh6jTQOCfdBvC68Xe7czm4sA0G3o0mJE-doQCB08h8iWaUjAN-itFG9M49FgZx-3V1F2vviJcfnwpLJZABA-JhGQrssvn0Z9dbgbtMWiyXfuwTWVjcaSPEVN/s1600/IMG_1256_stitch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="366" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieRXVZ0K4YDObXUFgNdc2QKh6jTQOCfdBvC68Xe7czm4sA0G3o0mJE-doQCB08h8iWaUjAN-itFG9M49FgZx-3V1F2vviJcfnwpLJZABA-JhGQrssvn0Z9dbgbtMWiyXfuwTWVjcaSPEVN/s400/IMG_1256_stitch.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Kaylmnos today has become one
of the ‘meccas’ of sport climbing in the world. The climbing is sensational as
you pull up steep overhanging pocketed walls and laybacks, and steep
overhanging tufa lines, or swing around upside down on hanging stalactites that
feature in many of the caves that strew the island. All this within a short
drive, walk or scooter ride from anywhere on the island.</span>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">The climbers arrived and the
island grew, now the town of Masouri (central for much of the climbing) has
grown and there are modern, well-equipped climbing shops, restaurants and cafés
and scooter hire outlets. The hotels and self-catering apartments are clean, well-equipped
and reasonably priced. The food is fantastic, the locals are super friendly and
the whole place gives off a great relaxed and chilled out feeling. There are
also any amount of ferries and water boats to take you to the famous and
beautiful island of Telendos (no roads or cars, just a couple of restaurants
and some fantastic single pitch and multi-pitch sport routes) or to climb at
any number of the deep water soloing venues that have grown over the years.
It’s got it all for a super relaxed sport climbing holiday by the sea and in
the sun!</span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG6jUzxcfk3NwdDaZjEgcxfQi8k4BeJvlEC5iTlp-EdB10l7edMAHconZaOxhoPoLy4dQI9xqFCXOjMIr7AheplfvYTQtMoMtBsZ_7ifKd0pzMCX2-FBWJ2GkM3JJcSu3IU3oByV5qafpz/s1600/WP_20151006_09_25_18_Pro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG6jUzxcfk3NwdDaZjEgcxfQi8k4BeJvlEC5iTlp-EdB10l7edMAHconZaOxhoPoLy4dQI9xqFCXOjMIr7AheplfvYTQtMoMtBsZ_7ifKd0pzMCX2-FBWJ2GkM3JJcSu3IU3oByV5qafpz/s400/WP_20151006_09_25_18_Pro.jpg" width="400" /> </a> </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The fast ferry service from Kos to Kalymnos</span> </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Arriving in Pothia, Kalymnos</span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">There are a number of options getting
to Kalymnos from the UK. In season the best way is to fly from London Gatwick
to Kos. Stay in Kos close to the port of Mastichari which is where the Kalymnos
ferry goes from. The following day spend a relaxing morning in the port and
then catch one of the many ferries to </span><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Pothia the main port on </span>Kalymnos. It’s a short 35 mins ferry
journey and costs less than £10 a person (buy the ticket at the small booth
next to the ferry at the port, which opens 15 mins before departure).</span><br />
<br />
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<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Out of season, you’ll need to
fly to Athens, spend a night there and then either fly to Kalymnos or to Kos (and
then take the ferry as mentioned above). The only problem in flying direct to
Kalymnos from Athens is that you can’t always guarantee getting there the same
day as flights do get cancelled due to the wind. The airstrip in Kalymnos is
small and exposed to the weather. The best way to ensure you get to Kalymnos
the same day is to fly to Kos and take the ferry. It’s a great way to arrive on
the island and makes the trip more of an adventure!</span>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">A short 15-minute taxi drive (around
15 Euros) from the port of Pothia will take you to Masouri, which is central to
all the climbing. The island is set up for climbers and the taxis meet every
ferry.</span><br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRzhJqZ5xIbt5jBrE9g7VvYJZwI8EITnMm3HiNpCMD_Lw7O8ymUK4USZ-tLAfebPE3JjTbXz6pIU51wsiGOAoc9yKoelEGwahxD0-VXC4LK9tmwJggO0Dfr8ezcmDxTxMD9aGj-yoYdw0w/s1600/WP_20151010_12_19_39_Pro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRzhJqZ5xIbt5jBrE9g7VvYJZwI8EITnMm3HiNpCMD_Lw7O8ymUK4USZ-tLAfebPE3JjTbXz6pIU51wsiGOAoc9yKoelEGwahxD0-VXC4LK9tmwJggO0Dfr8ezcmDxTxMD9aGj-yoYdw0w/s640/WP_20151010_12_19_39_Pro.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Getting around Kalymnos is
easy. If you’ve never been before, spend a few days walking from where you’re
staying in Masouri to the many local crags/areas that are dotted around close and
offer hundreds of routes at all grades.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;"></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzPwlXq_weaUO4zoWLWc9i1kZsDtKRn9iJstQhzyhdEu74ixtQfROUaSQ7xPwxFzb4aa4vd6Dt6lx2M3fbkR4atZXqGFVmYmqto4xLZ4Fef2rNZxpr9PalsNNFy__IiULdJMVttyZNn8wL/s1600/WP_20151014_13_24_32_Pro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzPwlXq_weaUO4zoWLWc9i1kZsDtKRn9iJstQhzyhdEu74ixtQfROUaSQ7xPwxFzb4aa4vd6Dt6lx2M3fbkR4atZXqGFVmYmqto4xLZ4Fef2rNZxpr9PalsNNFy__IiULdJMVttyZNn8wL/s400/WP_20151014_13_24_32_Pro.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">After this, consider taking the
short boat trip across to the beautiful island of Telendos, which will not only
give you a change of scene, but it’s a great outing and adventure. The
journey’s only 20 mins and around 5 Euros each way and you get to climb on an
island with no roads - just walkers, climbers and fisherman. There are both single
pitch and fantastic bolted multi-pitch routes to climb. Enjoy the whole day,
have a beer to settle the dust and some food (I recommend the freshly caught
fish), watch the sun go down and catch a late ferry back to Kalymnos. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s again only a short walk from Masouri to
the small ferry port to catch the boat to Telendos.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;"></span><br />
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<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Another idea is to then hire a
scooter from Mike’s Bikes or any number of other scooter hire shops in and
around Masouri. For around 15 -20 Euros a day you can access some of the other
sectors around the island and explore a little. Remember to take your driving
licence and even if you sport climb without a helmet and were thinking of
leaving it at home don’t, as you should get into the habit of wearing one when
leading and it doubles up as a helmet that you can wear on the scooter that’s
comfortable and fits properly!</span><br />
<br />
<br />
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<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">There’s a cash point in Masouri,
which feeds you with money for beer, fresh bread and fruit, scooter hire and suchlike.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">All you need is the time to go
there and enjoy yourself! Climbers visit the island all year round although for
me I’d find it too hot in the middle of summer even though there are many
places that you can stay in the shade for some of or all of the day. Even in
October when I last went we couldn’t climb in the sun and would change crags
when they came into the sun or only go to them when they went into the shade.</span><br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM5-pVdvlhSBtYQg9ktRnR18Z5lnezFM_Qa8O7GW-rwpzNjTBkArXOB-Qv-tENiUj8QsV_7jQO2ULrdZt6fmhnTet7EyNdpnAHyg6Pd0GZX0lFyfTJN1YS2ljO79R8RPZtCBeVchPKgk7v/s1600/me+cave.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="373" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM5-pVdvlhSBtYQg9ktRnR18Z5lnezFM_Qa8O7GW-rwpzNjTBkArXOB-Qv-tENiUj8QsV_7jQO2ULrdZt6fmhnTet7EyNdpnAHyg6Pd0GZX0lFyfTJN1YS2ljO79R8RPZtCBeVchPKgk7v/s400/me+cave.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">You can go with any number of
ideas or mix it up a little. The new guidebook has twice the number of routes
than the old one and also highlights crags that that are family friendly. </span>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Steve and I took also took our
road bikes and mixed in a few great rides which took us over some of the steep roads
and allowed us to explore some of the smaller fishing ports whilst having some
time out from the climbing. </span><br />
<br />
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</div>
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">It was great riding and
fantastic climbing – sounds like a holiday!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;"> </span>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Safe climbing </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Ade</span><br />
Adrian Nelhamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00217987888642027655noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4993953531346932548.post-50032045336714880232015-11-13T02:38:00.003-08:002015-11-13T05:00:46.755-08:00Get Ready for the Ice!<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Block Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Hyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="FollowedHyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Document Map"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Plain Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="E-mail Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Top of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Bottom of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal (Web)"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Acronym"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Cite"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Code"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Definition"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Keyboard"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Preformatted"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Sample"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Typewriter"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Variable"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal Table"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation subject"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="No List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Contemporary"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Elegant"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Professional"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Balloon Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Theme"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" QFormat="true"
Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="43" Name="Plain Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="44" Name="Plain Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="45" Name="Plain Table 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="40" Name="Grid Table Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="Grid Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="List Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="List Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="List Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Winter Ice Climbing Kit – Get ready for
the Ice!</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">With winter
fast approaching, now is a good time to check your kit!</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpTmaKF_o6GjjZU1yhZsW2TlSPCsUYOGZfoo-zw16z9SGHV97QLq_iZKsdULHohQR7ZfhGp7-zkQj3wsp64zrctQn-ZtHFZ2Jft0l7_oANMtpqf-wgPr8nlv3Ehj54NwjjiCVZ-HG2-kGH/s1600/_DSC0911Relativo+Cogne.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpTmaKF_o6GjjZU1yhZsW2TlSPCsUYOGZfoo-zw16z9SGHV97QLq_iZKsdULHohQR7ZfhGp7-zkQj3wsp64zrctQn-ZtHFZ2Jft0l7_oANMtpqf-wgPr8nlv3Ehj54NwjjiCVZ-HG2-kGH/s400/_DSC0911Relativo+Cogne.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Ice Axes and Leashes - </span></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Firstly, look at your ice axes and make
sure they are in good condition. Check the nuts and bolts. If you are changing
the pick then it is sometimes a good idea to replace the nuts as some have
nylon threads.</span>
</div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">If you use
leashes, check them for any wear and make sure they are right for the job. What
I mean by this is that, for me, the right leash system is really important. The
leashes attach you to your tools so they need to be the right length and
comfortable around your wrists. You also need a system, so that when you are
hanging from your axes on steep ice, you can release one hand to place or
retrieve an ice screw. For this reason, clipper leash systems have become very
popular as they stay firmly secured around your wrists, but when you need to
release a hand, you can do so by unclipping the whole leash from the shaft. It
takes some time getting used to them but they work very well. Just be careful if
you are placing or removing screws on steep ground near your head as the leash can
whip round and hit you in the face!</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Clipper leashes
are not everyone’s cup of tea and some people prefer a leash that is always
secured to the axe so you take out your hand. The main advantage of this is
that your hands are left free to place screws and belay without the leash getting
in the way. It is also nice to have a leash hanging from your axe when you are leading
and placing a screw because if you get pumped very quickly you can clip into it
or use it as an interim runner to calm the nerves! </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxrHGnEfTmfL0UGU3wqi9_em9d6Kqisx16gfHT6czfxogWwX5NzBIIh-0SD5rzJ-GhuOHm8AxiSkGjCDZ24UQG8cyomuI_KE6YAO-k7RdoPVU0QRYHKt1cuYh1zuy4b4zHbwQ3V47MztOw/s1600/low+res+ice.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxrHGnEfTmfL0UGU3wqi9_em9d6Kqisx16gfHT6czfxogWwX5NzBIIh-0SD5rzJ-GhuOHm8AxiSkGjCDZ24UQG8cyomuI_KE6YAO-k7RdoPVU0QRYHKt1cuYh1zuy4b4zHbwQ3V47MztOw/s400/low+res+ice.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Today, many
people climb leash-less and there are many axes out there designed with just
that in mind e.g. the DMM Switch or the Petzl Nomic. </span>
</div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Both these axes
have steep fully curved shafts and ergonomically designed handgrips designed
for steep ice or mixed climbing. The curved shaft gives great clearance and
importantly the shape and angle of the handgrip allows you to grip comfortably
giving you maximum control and direction of each pick placement. The offset angle
of the handgrip also gives you a stronger and more powerful wrist than when
holding a straight or curved shaft, where the wrist is under a lot of stress
when you are on steeper ground. This offset handgrip also pulls the right
muscles into play allowing the biceps and bigger shoulder muscles to do much of
the work.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">As well as the
grip though, it is the heel spur/trigger that allows you to relax and not grip
the shaft so hard so that in the longer term you get pumped! It important that
the bottom of your little finger and the end of the heel of your hand sit
comfortably on that heel spur/trigger to take much of the balance and strain.
When you throw the axe towards the ice, it’s at this point the heel
spur/trigger rotates around the heel of your hand allowing you to flick your
wrist and get a great pick placement with minimum effort.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8jfLw29A1w1H_i6gtDzQ6c8Y6ONTXxjAuYQTKDr5tlNOd5XN3V4AWR4bT4lW6krfApqqiWy-pb2teIsMIy2EQOPKgNP2SY5zKu5Cd4DVniMhv7WyYxLcI5_wfvuhTMp-bPjk4Yht0cx4f/s1600/Spanish+murchison+1+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8jfLw29A1w1H_i6gtDzQ6c8Y6ONTXxjAuYQTKDr5tlNOd5XN3V4AWR4bT4lW6krfApqqiWy-pb2teIsMIy2EQOPKgNP2SY5zKu5Cd4DVniMhv7WyYxLcI5_wfvuhTMp-bPjk4Yht0cx4f/s400/Spanish+murchison+1+-+Copy.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">The modern day
leash or tether attaches to the bottom of your ice axe and then on to your
harness. The main purpose of this is that you will never drop your ice axe when
you are not holding onto it such as at a belay station or when placing an ice screw.
The great thing about the tether is that it still allows the freedom of
movement and the simplicity of over moving over ice or mixed ground, which you
only get when you climb leash less.</span>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Having said
that, if you are leashless climbing for the first time I would suggest that you
drop down a grade or two from what you climb with old style leashes, as it is a
very different ball game! Take your time with it, as it’s much more serious and
committing. You do not want to fall, either by a foot coming off a small ice
feature or by getting pumped. I have seen a lot more climbers taking falls as
leashless climbing has become more commonplace. Icefall climbing is not sport
climbing in winter. Get some mileage under your belt first by building
technique, strength and an understanding of all the different types of ice
before going leashless all the time.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Also, a week of
lead climbing on steep ice is hard work and probably miles away from your
normal day-to-day life. Give thought to the week and don’t overcook the last
day by climbing your hardest route having just started leash less climbing.
You’ll be tired physically and mentally and it’s a time when you may very
quickly and without warning get pumped! Build up to it and do not feel as
though you ‘should be’ climbing leashless, do what you feel is right for the
conditions and your level of experience.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzTtrPcg3adVWYPYBn138hStyaRfay0Lqc4wf5dW4EdR4g38Zxiy9b3thQasLWvLmcpHS-M6X_UP6ih9Mo7wvAc9YuSXa383DHjEJJf4ZrABJgr0Cl8z-6HgolSnWhsDmyLJuRqrhFH7n8/s1600/crampons.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzTtrPcg3adVWYPYBn138hStyaRfay0Lqc4wf5dW4EdR4g38Zxiy9b3thQasLWvLmcpHS-M6X_UP6ih9Mo7wvAc9YuSXa383DHjEJJf4ZrABJgr0Cl8z-6HgolSnWhsDmyLJuRqrhFH7n8/s640/crampons.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Crampons - </span></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Sharpen your crampons with a fine file
so the teeth are sharp and will bite into hard waterfall ice. Check they fit
your winter boots well and that all the nuts and bolts are tight. Also, check
that your crampon straps are in good order with no frayed ends. There is nothing
worse than trying to thread a frozen frayed strap through two small eyelets
with gloves on! If you are buying new crampons, go for the dual vertical points
that have serrated teeth on the underside that bite into the ice. The classic
flat horizontal points with no teeth on the underside will skate around on the
cold hard ice. Climbing both rock and ice is all about footwork. If you lose
confidence in your feet then you will use your arms, more which is a lot more
tiring, to the point that it will be too hard to get up the route let alone
placing or retrieving gear. </span>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">I also think that
dual points are more stable than mono points, giving you more confidence if
your feet and making climbing less tiring. They also allow for a more relaxed ‘toes
out slightly’ technique giving the calves a much needed rest (the actual dual
points sit closer to the outside of the crampon, closer to the underside point
allowing you to stand on those points above the big toe easier). Finally, go
for a lightweight crampon allowing you to enjoy using the features of the ice
accurately and efficiently.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Ice Screws - </span></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">The best modern ice screws today are of
the screw in and screw out variety such as the Black Diamond Express ice screw.
This screw has a chromoly shaft, stainless steel hanger and express lever that
opens out and allows you to drill in the screw quickly and efficiently. The
newer BD Express screws have silver hangers which reflect the sun helping keep
a solid placement rather than it quickly melting out on sunny routes as it did
with the older black metal hangers. The teeth are very aggressive meaning they
bite into the hardest ice for a quick placement. They have also taken some
weight out of the hanger so that it is less head heavy allowing for a quicker
and safer placement. This means that you will be less likely to drop it when
screwing it in. The angle of the hanger (90 degrees) also allows you to tap it
round with the heel of your hand to help get a solid placement so that the
hanger is flush with the surface of the ice.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Remember always
dry your screws after you have used them by taking off the protective end caps.
Always use the protective end cap as it keeps the teeth of the ice screw nice
and sharp – you will be glad of this one day! I always keep and transport mine
with the end caps and sleeves, which also protects the thread on the shaft and in
turn helps when screwing the ice screw into the ice. One tip is to make a hole
in the end cap so that any moisture from the screw is allowed to drain away,
stopping any potential corrosion.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Ropes - </span></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Ropes are another key piece of equipment
and it takes time to source the right rope for you. When it comes to ice it
important that <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the rope is at least 60m,
is dry treated and handles well, e.g. 2 x 60m DMM Migrant 8.2mm half ropes. The
pitch length may not always be 60m but getting onto a pitch or moving back from
the edge of the ice at the top usually entails easier snow slopes or ice cones
so a longer rope is invaluable. A dry treated rope is obvious for those warmer
days when the ice is wet, the last thing you want is a heavy or iced up rope
that now won’t fit through a belay plate or becomes too stiff to use safely.
Dry the ropes out on an indirect heat source and store in a dry/dark room or
cupboard and always check them carefully each time you use them.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Harness - </span></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Check over your harness for signs of wear
and give some thought to how you are going to rack the ice screws. You could use
either two Simond Racks or a Simond Rack for your right hand, which is the hand
most people place ice screws with and a plastic Black Diamond clipper with a
lightweight wire gate for your left hand. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">The New Arc'teryx A<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">R <span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">3</span>95a <span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">is super lightweight, comfortable, fully adjustable and pac<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">ks up small<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"> which is great for when you'r<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">e carry all th<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">at extra kit in winter.</span></span></span></span></span> </span> </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIdd1EwI9ENV_oOjw0PBedb3wNQv-cIPzO9W_rkB1oQ_z7LQ3bW_7wAuiab0Qsgg3mqii8GFP2KrR6xzgnx-dVxc-G7EzTwFaDuVzeOxO7EPTqHaPf7PB6DApBKvE2o7MOe10xVKr_PozD/s1600/Simond+clipper.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIdd1EwI9ENV_oOjw0PBedb3wNQv-cIPzO9W_rkB1oQ_z7LQ3bW_7wAuiab0Qsgg3mqii8GFP2KrR6xzgnx-dVxc-G7EzTwFaDuVzeOxO7EPTqHaPf7PB6DApBKvE2o7MOe10xVKr_PozD/s400/Simond+clipper.JPG" width="335" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">These systems
save you loads of time and energy, rack about 10 -12 ice screws and work well.
They also allow you to clip and unclip ice screws from you harness with one
hand, while the other is still holding onto a secure axe placement. Just
remember to have a system on both sides of your harness, as you cannot always
predict where the best ice will be and with which hand you will need to use to place
the ice screw. You can make your own system by taping a large bent gate
karabiner facing downwards to your harness. Clip it through your harness waist
band first and then tape it so it doesn’t move and the screws will rack in the
end where the gate opens. The ice screw hanger pushes against the gate of the
karabiner, opening it allowing you to hook the screw onto the karabiner.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Take some
Abolokov threader or ‘V’ threader, and some 8mm rope (old climbing rope) for
abseils - don’t leave home without it!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Helmet - </span></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">This is a given, just make sure yours is
comfortable as you will be wearing it all day.</span>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Boots – </span></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Finally, give your boots a good airing
and change the laces if necessary. </span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Clothing - </span></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Give some thought to your clothing and
choose a layering system that will not only keep you warm but also allow you
plenty of movement (synthetic mid-layer systems, such as the Arc’teryx Nuclei
Jacket is great for this). Gloves are very important and two pairs of thick
finger gloves are best. Wear one pair and carry the other, so that when one
pair gets cold and wet you can change them and your hands will stay continually
warm. Keep the thick pair for climbing and wear a thin fleece pair on the walk
in because if you do sweat in the thick ones you will have cold hands from the
word go.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Take a fleece
hat that fits comfortably under your helmet and carry a pair of sunglasses, as
generally the best ice in cold temperatures will be found in the sun!</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Always carry a
small headlamp, as the days are shorter in winter and take plenty of food,
which you can carry in a pocket and eat on the belays.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">The main thing
with all your kit is that you know how it works and that its organised because the
more organised you are with your leashes, racking, ice screws etc. the easier,
less pumped, warmer and safer you’ll be!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Safe Climbing</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Ade</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />Adrian Nelhamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00217987888642027655noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4993953531346932548.post-80899207989755527742015-09-24T06:55:00.001-07:002015-09-24T14:48:50.805-07:00ISM Kyrgyzstan Virgin Summits trip report<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
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<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">ISM
Kyrgyzstan (Pamirs) Virgin Summits Expedition 2015 </span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
</span><br />
<br />
<br />
<article class="article" role="article"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Trip
Leader, ISM Director and IFMGA Guide Adrian Nelhams (AN).
</span><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Other
Guides Ben Tibbetts (BT), Vladimir Komissarov (VK). </span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
</span><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Climbers
– Stephen Taylor (ST), Jason Sheldrake (JS), Daman Ranby (DR), George Da Silva
(GdS) and Michael Doyle (MD)</span>. </span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Area
visited – The Zaalay Range at the Eastern end of the Trans Alai Range</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi0_FQCpfmC201pe3iPeOhqWx2H5uR7SEECvy9FHkjhKb3ftFccf-wSvfoL8lOEHc2oO4immvcm5bE4CFBzzw6sAZNAuFTInPM3z-bkvXzWYuRzCwAI7YskM3GZYKmUqVL0tykiVzPsyMl/s1600/6X3A7658.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="111" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi0_FQCpfmC201pe3iPeOhqWx2H5uR7SEECvy9FHkjhKb3ftFccf-wSvfoL8lOEHc2oO4immvcm5bE4CFBzzw6sAZNAuFTInPM3z-bkvXzWYuRzCwAI7YskM3GZYKmUqVL0tykiVzPsyMl/s400/6X3A7658.jpg" width="400" /> </a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Good
flights via Istanbul into Osh, the second largest city in Kyrgyzstan meant the
trip started well. Vladimir and his team had already driven down from the
capital Bishkek and had were out shopping for last minute food in the many
colourful markets in the centre of the city.</span><br />
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguKCl8gaFBdSqrXID0p08FQ_GdJpZ6R6sT24AhKvhRQcilDJP2KAHIt1fN7oEoOSrZPGnL3Qk5cg7iuHYK7Ew-O8cJTdOFahx7LOH0UyaqFQf8yS50ewnws_5dLgC6kEjiis7Swz0fj8_I/s1600/6X3A6493.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguKCl8gaFBdSqrXID0p08FQ_GdJpZ6R6sT24AhKvhRQcilDJP2KAHIt1fN7oEoOSrZPGnL3Qk5cg7iuHYK7Ew-O8cJTdOFahx7LOH0UyaqFQf8yS50ewnws_5dLgC6kEjiis7Swz0fj8_I/s400/6X3A6493.jpg" width="246" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK8xCs26ZCj41u5aUxzxcmqeCOTPjpesNFfmws8sRrmh5KuwnND0MzLb62l37B6rBHa1-M9jJ2eLJuyB0mtQfT_hPQdy_yCtdLJxE83JJqcNBcmntH3Uyz6343am8IwZAHqFCsUXGvnn4K/s1600/6X3A6510.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK8xCs26ZCj41u5aUxzxcmqeCOTPjpesNFfmws8sRrmh5KuwnND0MzLb62l37B6rBHa1-M9jJ2eLJuyB0mtQfT_hPQdy_yCtdLJxE83JJqcNBcmntH3Uyz6343am8IwZAHqFCsUXGvnn4K/s400/6X3A6510.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi8dihyphenhyphen09d1xCVeqKtXiYyU-XWqw29LytcOcqBqN8NvJzoa8Agy8M6rj5FoAIrJwv1Z2cKUWw4Q5QoU1wfQm0OkGr_HS0_WbG1NMsC7cH5Ug8uKuz938g2rY_QNk0Pn2ailA04H1C79XXp/s1600/6X3A6553.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi8dihyphenhyphen09d1xCVeqKtXiYyU-XWqw29LytcOcqBqN8NvJzoa8Agy8M6rj5FoAIrJwv1Z2cKUWw4Q5QoU1wfQm0OkGr_HS0_WbG1NMsC7cH5Ug8uKuz938g2rY_QNk0Pn2ailA04H1C79XXp/s400/6X3A6553.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Vladimir
then took us on a cultural tour of the city and the following day we loaded our
bags into the 6WD Kamaz truck and headed south to the town of Sarytash and onto
the Pamir Mountain Range, which borders Tajikistan.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
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<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Our
first camp that night was at 3285m on the flat terraced grasslands outside of
Sarytash at the foot of the Pamir Mountains. This was an amazing place and a
clear evening sky with the sun setting across glaciated peaks rising up to over
7000m got everyone focused on the detail ofthe surrounding peaks and the valleys
which we were heading into.</span></div>
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<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">An
early start the next day saw our vehicle slowly picking its way over steep
hillsides and eventually down into the river delta which led to our base camp
(BC) at 3580m</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
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<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">The
following few days were spent acclimatising and reconnoitring the surrounding
valleys and peaks to prepare for establishing an advanced base camp
(ABC). </span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">During
this time BT climbed Peak (PK) Charghyllgun (Thunder Peak) 4025m. </span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">We
then established an advanced base camp in a parallel valley further east which
gave us access to some great peaks. Over the next few days’ the team climbed: </span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">PK
Tepkich (Stepped Peak) 4785m – AN, ST, BT, DR</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">PK
Kuchk (Puppy Peak) 4150m – VK, JS, GdS, MD </span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">PK
Charissa, 43654m – VK, JS, GdS, MD </span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">PK
Jolborz (Tiger Peak) 4624m – AN, ST, BT, DR </span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">PK
Eaz (Tracker Peak) 4018m – VK, JS, GdS, MD </span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">PK
Byichi (Peak Dancing Boy) 4360m – AN, ST, BT, DR </span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
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<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">The
team then headed back to BC for a much needed rest and wash before establishing
a second ABC to explore another part of the range. </span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">The
following day we established ABC at 4234m in a high valley to the South of BC
and the </span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">next
day climbed –</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">PK
Kartan Aughuze (Old Buffalo Peak) 5350m – VK, MD </span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">PK
Tohm (The Hub) 5071m – AN, JS, GdS </span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">PK
Uch Tubur (3 Brothers Peak) 5311m – BT, ST, DR </span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
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<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">With
a change in the weather the following day we decided to head back to base camp
and woke up to a few inches of snow across the campsite at 3580m. In order to
maximise our time left at base camp we headed into the valley parallel and to
the west of our camp and climbed PK Minaret 4480m – AN, BT, JS, ST, DR.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">The
next day we broke camp, loaded the vehicle and headed out of the main range,
back through the town of Sarytash to a small rocky range to the north. Here we
made camp and explored the rock climbing potential in the area for future
trips. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Our
last day driving back to Osh gave us all time to really appreciate the
landscape and countryside that is so culturally diverse and interesting.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Over
the course of the trip, we climbed 11 Virgin Summits in the Kyrgyzstan Pamirs
Range and apart from a couple of local shepherds who brought Kumis (fermented mares milk)
and cream, we didn’t see a soul! .</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Thanks
must go to Sasha our driver for getting us into base camp, Artur our cook, for
some fantastic culinary delights and our two porters Sasha and Dima for helping
with some heavy loads up to advanced base camp.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Another
very successful ISM Kyrgyzstan Virgin Summits Expedition and already looking
forward to and making plans for next years trip!</span></div>
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<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Many
thanks for Jason Sheldrake and Ben Tibbetts for all their photo's this year. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Safe
Climbing</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Ade</span></div>
</article><br />
<br /></div>
Adrian Nelhamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00217987888642027655noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4993953531346932548.post-14777985036061936212015-05-20T06:32:00.000-07:002015-05-20T06:32:00.178-07:00Rock Climbing Introduction<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Great fun weekend, guiding an introductory rock climbing course.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A mix of guided climbing on some of the classic routes here in the Lakes, underpinned with a good dose of instruction and coaching on traditional climbing.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Great weather throughout, during a very mixed forecast!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Jo Cresswell on the 3rd pitch of Troutdale Pinnacle, Borrowdale </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The classic traverse, pitch 5 on Troutdale Pinnacle, Borrowdale</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The final 'very airy' pitch on the classic Troutdale Pinnacle, Borrowdale </span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Jo belaying on the final pitch of Ardus, Shepherds Crag, Borrowdale </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Enjoying the climbing on Ardus, Shepherds Crag, Borrowdale </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Topping out on Ardus on Shepherds Crag, with Derwent Water nr Keswick in the background</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Jo climbing the second pitch on Centipede, Raven Crag, Langdale</span> </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5k4tKHYQosOrkUZsAHZIsG7RH-tCX1KtN5PJofbjJLmoiWUjRPuo86O4gz5UC40jdpCL0NCRXvoVFF3lU_cNJej5IwJ72dyTN3ULdKOFQ8qphVeNBQJdW4DjtB80zl16D6FEsT0J6BMa6/s1600/5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="326" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5k4tKHYQosOrkUZsAHZIsG7RH-tCX1KtN5PJofbjJLmoiWUjRPuo86O4gz5UC40jdpCL0NCRXvoVFF3lU_cNJej5IwJ72dyTN3ULdKOFQ8qphVeNBQJdW4DjtB80zl16D6FEsT0J6BMa6/s400/5.JPG" width="400" /> </a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Enjoying the climbing on Original Route, Raven Crag, Langdale. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Safe climbing</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Ade</span></div>
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Adrian Nelhamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00217987888642027655noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4993953531346932548.post-19734566100213618072015-05-06T06:48:00.001-07:002015-05-06T07:13:41.896-07:00BMG Summer Training<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We ran again the IFMGA British Mountain Guides Summer rock climbing training last week, here in the Lakes.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A great week covering many of the skills that make up a very competent summer UK Rock Guide.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We split the days into 4 key areas, developing the trainees existing skills and experience and putting into place a professional approach and mindset that will be a constant throughout all the courses they complete on the BMG scheme.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Key areas -</span><br />
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<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Guided Climbing</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Teaching</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Short Roping</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Mountain Day </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></li>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Trainees had a great week which has set themselves up for a UK summer of training and work and ultimately preparing themselves for their Summer UK Rock Assessment in September.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It's their first block of training coming after their induction onto the British Mountain Guides Training Scheme. During the induction we assess their climbing ability as well as initiate some basic foundations in short roping, navigation and crag rescue scenarios.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It was great to see so much enthusiasm and talent, which was both inspiring for us as Trainers and great to be a part of.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We had great weather considering the forecast! (there was snow on the high fells all week!) </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcSYEf_iJWio2g_hin_ikwOT9XI8Nb_7G1PU0Oi3kviGFH7xLnj3NpJX32H1TXbSqKVGLIYgh66UVwCNKOF-tPuqYjqHPSC4SnfnFZzcDjhHGTRh0vb7DWjFdVHGEl2sBbYWqz4dJ9b8ek/s1600/langdale+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcSYEf_iJWio2g_hin_ikwOT9XI8Nb_7G1PU0Oi3kviGFH7xLnj3NpJX32H1TXbSqKVGLIYgh66UVwCNKOF-tPuqYjqHPSC4SnfnFZzcDjhHGTRh0vb7DWjFdVHGEl2sBbYWqz4dJ9b8ek/s1600/langdale+1.JPG" height="395" width="640" /> </a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Guided rock climbing in Langdale, Lake District</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnSigc746aPaw-zVBeYO5Cl3w4vIu_HuLBiPSf7-jdZLNeJmUQiEd7S_RR7_s0OXg52-CP4-NGbeuVJf80OCxun3549R3HGAvIUomOwxL8ipNY_RKeJ_tgtkBQn3Zc9W_chrHrerQlZLPK/s1600/aa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnSigc746aPaw-zVBeYO5Cl3w4vIu_HuLBiPSf7-jdZLNeJmUQiEd7S_RR7_s0OXg52-CP4-NGbeuVJf80OCxun3549R3HGAvIUomOwxL8ipNY_RKeJ_tgtkBQn3Zc9W_chrHrerQlZLPK/s1600/aa.jpg" height="300" width="400" /> </a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Teaching short roping in the Coniston area, Lake District</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Guided climbing in Langdale, Lake District. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Teaching short roping in the Coniston area Lake District.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpVIM3aPlNBQHrWjwbyoMNSXTNAD4_UYEiQJs3HaQ46pnsFaCzDwQgTfFYMV8Fjhor3Oq2RnFzqEuy6JDv9KjfJPD7qz8G_Psvr2jLQx4HClxpLopulOzx21eV-rW7ol5WsPRFVFLXMx3C/s1600/bvb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpVIM3aPlNBQHrWjwbyoMNSXTNAD4_UYEiQJs3HaQ46pnsFaCzDwQgTfFYMV8Fjhor3Oq2RnFzqEuy6JDv9KjfJPD7qz8G_Psvr2jLQx4HClxpLopulOzx21eV-rW7ol5WsPRFVFLXMx3C/s1600/bvb.jpg" height="476" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMp89PLslr-7Q27iPPAr025fFzj8MHUjqKPrWJp31OZEdA9ufOnc3HTvJtqnVfSBSBShDqU6Bi47O1tJ02DM2hn_j9vwD9YhdqBcc3rV7t5JImDulT2TcKFWGgDyGzsTeGfKlZfB20IJSf/s1600/DSC02359.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMp89PLslr-7Q27iPPAr025fFzj8MHUjqKPrWJp31OZEdA9ufOnc3HTvJtqnVfSBSBShDqU6Bi47O1tJ02DM2hn_j9vwD9YhdqBcc3rV7t5JImDulT2TcKFWGgDyGzsTeGfKlZfB20IJSf/s1600/DSC02359.JPG" height="400" width="300" /> </a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">John Orr enjoying the mountain day high up on Gimmer Crag, Langdale</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Thanks to Stuart McAleese and Steve Long for their quality of input and training during the week.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Many thanks to Arc'teryx who's the main sponsor and partner of the British Mountain Guides. Arc'teryx specifically sponsored this training course which is amazing, dramatically bringing down the overall cost of the course to each trainee. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The trainees also went away with some much appreciated Arc'teryx goodies including some mountain trousers and the new Arc'teryx Acrux FL GTX Approach shoes which look great.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg48njOApMRbdIOP-gqeq3cjyH6jG1-RGTWB8_Xxt_4qzg0W_Vo6ZcPnl0IwpvyN9eyghPxo9EWcSi1Ia5O6QxzEpWG37_m9ke3_an8Vfyi7Vx6Nti8T86dbkjs2jCBNeF63me80iG2vkoF/s1600/Acrux-FL-GTX-Approach-Shoe-Abyss-Big-Surf.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg48njOApMRbdIOP-gqeq3cjyH6jG1-RGTWB8_Xxt_4qzg0W_Vo6ZcPnl0IwpvyN9eyghPxo9EWcSi1Ia5O6QxzEpWG37_m9ke3_an8Vfyi7Vx6Nti8T86dbkjs2jCBNeF63me80iG2vkoF/s1600/Acrux-FL-GTX-Approach-Shoe-Abyss-Big-Surf.png" height="320" width="288" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Also many thanks to Paul Casey who owns the Climbers Shop in Ambleside, for holding one of the evening sessions we ran after shop opening hours.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">In all it makes for a great course and one that I hope has given the trainees a great foundation in UK Summer rock guiding.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Safe climbing</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Ade </span></div>
<br />Adrian Nelhamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00217987888642027655noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4993953531346932548.post-75117655298073770372015-04-26T02:39:00.002-07:002015-04-26T02:39:53.812-07:00Canadian Rockies<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A little late in posting up some Canadian images......but hopefully these will give you a flavour of the trip. It wasn't the easiest of conditions, as it was probably one of the warmest winters on record. I was over there for just under a month and in the middle week we had temperatures of +21degrees in Banff!!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Many of the classics such as Weeping Wall and Polar Circus were all out of condition due to their sunny aspects and the unseasonal weather and temperatures.There were also numerous grizzly bear sightings with the whole park coming alive a month or so early which added another dimension. We were told the small can of pepper spray, would just make the grizzlies even more angry! </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Crowfoot Mountain, Bow Lake, Icefields Parkway, Alberta</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Bow Falls, Banff National Park, Alberta</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Candian Pacific heading through Alberta and BC out to the West coast.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The 1st pitch of Spray River Falls, Banff, Alberta</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Abseiling back down Spray River Falls, Banff, Alberta</span> </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCg3ETS_3wlX4deZDF-7rtLCnjKlBEdTzeKz000LK6nA74negolki_1mK4vp-KbNo_Q8JZ31YRrGGJWg61Cn4cGA_9sTJ8tiWlBWWBcG4jcm05WQPR_fOGDoySHVXIbDrS7wVhhxVZ7rfU/s1600/colin+shades.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCg3ETS_3wlX4deZDF-7rtLCnjKlBEdTzeKz000LK6nA74negolki_1mK4vp-KbNo_Q8JZ31YRrGGJWg61Cn4cGA_9sTJ8tiWlBWWBcG4jcm05WQPR_fOGDoySHVXIbDrS7wVhhxVZ7rfU/s1600/colin+shades.JPG" height="640" width="448" /> </a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Shades of Beauty, nr Jasper, Icefields Parkway, Alberta.</span> </div>
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<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihIwd5RoTOLdXD7CAu4hcLuh6KG028rQ_rvBB1zlp0T1-n37azFkGW-7lZbEGBQ6-QMDDxUGzNnK6W8UT7_w6q9ZUl32JIICgnuw_mFJXj4gSC0sX7tr9XOBcWrXIkwMXanmn4oFiEp_ik/s1600/Spanish+murchison+1.JPG" height="456" width="640" /> <span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">High up on Murchisson Falls, Mount Murchisson, Icefields Parkway, Alberta.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifEv620LwK4LLe7Zpk9WWGvUpNSz1o_4-oO4GJ5HOjDOwvGqzw5yFlCHt_bUEKVXGc8CkJmnGRI37nRSuSQr6bBS8Icu_wIFNuLuF4hk2ysuLBTTmFtyJ6DEmV5ofWtjjW20mQgRvBdjqN/s1600/Colin+Murchison+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifEv620LwK4LLe7Zpk9WWGvUpNSz1o_4-oO4GJ5HOjDOwvGqzw5yFlCHt_bUEKVXGc8CkJmnGRI37nRSuSQr6bBS8Icu_wIFNuLuF4hk2ysuLBTTmFtyJ6DEmV5ofWtjjW20mQgRvBdjqN/s1600/Colin+Murchison+2.JPG" height="640" width="472" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Murchisson Falls, Mount Murchisson, Icefields Parkway</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Murchisson Falls topo</span> -<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> a team heading up very late in the day!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPbsov6jYNxb0iqI6DD6WIM17kkqxBx0kTR7NMNjOMJqcMWJOHPq1ghjc5wfMy146vB07jU7psZA9MPEalQf6o52yZMYiQSwLoUn3mwy2kTUTcZUrDIZfycBjU1UH70Z-frxtdOlgLNn0Q/s1600/folk+on+slipstream.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPbsov6jYNxb0iqI6DD6WIM17kkqxBx0kTR7NMNjOMJqcMWJOHPq1ghjc5wfMy146vB07jU7psZA9MPEalQf6o52yZMYiQSwLoUn3mwy2kTUTcZUrDIZfycBjU1UH70Z-frxtdOlgLNn0Q/s1600/folk+on+slipstream.JPG" height="640" width="480" /> </a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">High up on Slipstream, Columbia Icefields, Alberta</span> </div>
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<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnvpKvrc9DpWRJfZETSIyMy_FiJRR5_yYj8QjM9sWGbBGpmJcvXgWOZ8BwsU8E6iFxVogfgTtpGEltM3mi-8Vp8iDGqjIUvj-TwGjLscO9aI6kRs1cGidTuTFPiNHgZkV4bs1wan4clAiv/s1600/me+and+snowdome.JPG" height="418" width="640" /> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Snowdome Mountain, Columbia Icefields, on the edge of the Banff and Jasper National Parks, Icefields Parkway. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Slipstream Topo, Snowdome Mountain, Columbia Icefields, on the continental divide between Alberta and BC</span> </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQjA480YaeHUeuqed3Adg4DoxhXfn4fSXgeXLkl0izwtFd7fowmmBNEt3B3lfDjDVsWAOFJ8tH8it6bwym_AMYTrTEs-aZ5k8JIas_2XeLEyy8_JZXCnlTENtkKxtzXzQLr3hEjwZEu5U-/s1600/first+pitch+guiness.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQjA480YaeHUeuqed3Adg4DoxhXfn4fSXgeXLkl0izwtFd7fowmmBNEt3B3lfDjDVsWAOFJ8tH8it6bwym_AMYTrTEs-aZ5k8JIas_2XeLEyy8_JZXCnlTENtkKxtzXzQLr3hEjwZEu5U-/s1600/first+pitch+guiness.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">First pitch of Guinness Gully, Field, BC</span> </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvlET9fcOPguhej2dMo3hVib2M-O5qBuVcdgMOQJQ2dPhZJaHDBuzESCubNMqxZbR7u6FKZsUgejDowCEqPAxjuuVG0h5lBguNgb6GsbbkcgQazVSuFtnqpIhYa9kJDnj1kyGPPULJsfKk/s1600/professor+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvlET9fcOPguhej2dMo3hVib2M-O5qBuVcdgMOQJQ2dPhZJaHDBuzESCubNMqxZbR7u6FKZsUgejDowCEqPAxjuuVG0h5lBguNgb6GsbbkcgQazVSuFtnqpIhYa9kJDnj1kyGPPULJsfKk/s1600/professor+2.JPG" height="640" width="480" /> </a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Me enjoying some great conditions in amongst some very warm temperatures</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtYyAiyqVIUoUlt257V6jnEJ-APIvLzvjraB-UppGdtLtE6qWnZBjhr8_mBG6194-CwtJUmwuUtBmQXSFz62Gfoiqnc7hSLfabx7rns9V18exhJPF-1AUwVw21mBmXmk82c5QZVdmSc7Df/s1600/top+pitch+guiness.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtYyAiyqVIUoUlt257V6jnEJ-APIvLzvjraB-UppGdtLtE6qWnZBjhr8_mBG6194-CwtJUmwuUtBmQXSFz62Gfoiqnc7hSLfabx7rns9V18exhJPF-1AUwVw21mBmXmk82c5QZVdmSc7Df/s1600/top+pitch+guiness.JPG" height="640" width="420" /> </a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">High up on Guinness Gully, Field, BC</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitAfRBwpT1O5q8sxiklY9M26wZwQkYeXzvI1r4ETpaC9fKV-vB6tLlbllaAGumDA5IxFOGhb4ET0Bz88i12rcZe_7O9GuJYN0EwDeyhFdR-3AlHyXEwJzu0ksWQcvFGgE5Ofu0MN2JNCwy/s1600/lake+louise+falls.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitAfRBwpT1O5q8sxiklY9M26wZwQkYeXzvI1r4ETpaC9fKV-vB6tLlbllaAGumDA5IxFOGhb4ET0Bz88i12rcZe_7O9GuJYN0EwDeyhFdR-3AlHyXEwJzu0ksWQcvFGgE5Ofu0MN2JNCwy/s1600/lake+louise+falls.JPG" height="382" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Great climbing on Lake Louise Falls, Louise, Alberta</span> </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW5K6DvmFbze7SMOYCtLaNKk2f-xAfYzCQRy_xVvrwzfcWNIfmlBiQcTjrBl-qnElT5RiEgF8uxJ1QUWeoESYj_mdhPnm9JTRtZWLLa0I5VMjA57aJZ-3mYtPLRyi9ySUgwUMvj0PaljNz/s1600/me+biking+in+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW5K6DvmFbze7SMOYCtLaNKk2f-xAfYzCQRy_xVvrwzfcWNIfmlBiQcTjrBl-qnElT5RiEgF8uxJ1QUWeoESYj_mdhPnm9JTRtZWLLa0I5VMjA57aJZ-3mYtPLRyi9ySUgwUMvj0PaljNz/s1600/me+biking+in+2.JPG" height="400" width="333" /> </a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Having some fun heading into Professor Falls, Banff, Alberta</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Professor Falls, Banff, Alberta.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Z2Gjt-JHZ_owgU-JzQAW1Wv80UwWeDKdkuiQdu30TyhgL7fg93LjUkW4TFGUaS60TaTNiEjNCMPaj3_KiMrZ5Ur7uo3PEdzkTm3K1UpqJ9C7VFQo6zyS15RuDBbQrkWg6DQ8NHc2z-qt/s1600/me+first+pitch+extra+lite.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Z2Gjt-JHZ_owgU-JzQAW1Wv80UwWeDKdkuiQdu30TyhgL7fg93LjUkW4TFGUaS60TaTNiEjNCMPaj3_KiMrZ5Ur7uo3PEdzkTm3K1UpqJ9C7VFQo6zyS15RuDBbQrkWg6DQ8NHc2z-qt/s1600/me+first+pitch+extra+lite.JPG" height="640" width="404" /> </a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Heading up Extra Lite, Field, BC</span> </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSgA1-cbZO_0m9LOPo0lO73elX7PcpVMXkG38hNtXAurMbmsT-ctOWvQofF9xbMyRa8EiQcnTf2mN-GXpwbV-DddpwZH2NIRmaB5ZVxl18FWQaueO-FaH7eVh6bU10CFp-nvSP5WFCDspJ/s1600/top+pitch+extra+lite.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSgA1-cbZO_0m9LOPo0lO73elX7PcpVMXkG38hNtXAurMbmsT-ctOWvQofF9xbMyRa8EiQcnTf2mN-GXpwbV-DddpwZH2NIRmaB5ZVxl18FWQaueO-FaH7eVh6bU10CFp-nvSP5WFCDspJ/s1600/top+pitch+extra+lite.JPG" height="640" width="492" /> </a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Top pitch of Extra Lite, Field, BC</span> </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCh4EXoMbCXOBPnced5StJ6zKmH-mSXco9-j2OD1k0nzffhf1OPkxsxZn1MN0qHJq68GxOyvA9SzorhpsimDH4cVtllfJLM5xw7Jc-cc7vsJRTNQtkphwMyWebV5zFhR7JrgIxWu81NIKe/s1600/cleaning+threads.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCh4EXoMbCXOBPnced5StJ6zKmH-mSXco9-j2OD1k0nzffhf1OPkxsxZn1MN0qHJq68GxOyvA9SzorhpsimDH4cVtllfJLM5xw7Jc-cc7vsJRTNQtkphwMyWebV5zFhR7JrgIxWu81NIKe/s1600/cleaning+threads.JPG" height="400" width="300" /> </a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Doing my bit! cleaning up all the threads on a classic at the end of a great season.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1CINhMuWbzzG0VgppW929bJExGbQSYR0cmksqhK1yGn4OF_sEwjvGT_rILHoAlRtETSpi1SxF2XwbqgNJBXdck8kiJAU7rkRPNMOXIfj9Ritx_Ecw1xKX4bJYyZyV_au7xq-QKeqWgvhP/s1600/Heading+home.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1CINhMuWbzzG0VgppW929bJExGbQSYR0cmksqhK1yGn4OF_sEwjvGT_rILHoAlRtETSpi1SxF2XwbqgNJBXdck8kiJAU7rkRPNMOXIfj9Ritx_Ecw1xKX4bJYyZyV_au7xq-QKeqWgvhP/s1600/Heading+home.JPG" height="640" width="428" /> </a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Heading Home - only 7651km to Kendal!</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Back in the Lake District and summer feels like it's arrived......looking forward to hanging up the tools after a super busy winter on the ice and now looking forward to turning the legs on the Xbike and getting out on the rock.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I was down in London last week running a Risk Management workshop for a senior team at London Underground which went very well.....looking at the Human factors influencing decision making... </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">British Mountain Guides summer rock climbing training this week so looking forward to that.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Safe Climbing </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ade </span> </div>
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<!-- Blogger automated replacement: "https://images-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com/gadgets/proxy?url=http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F-nyB2_mHdUuk%2FVTv_CKlApYI%2FAAAAAAAAEGA%2FzjKXFY5Pp0Q%2Fs1600%2Fcolin%252Bfirst%252Bpitch%252BSpray.JPG&container=blogger&gadget=a&rewriteMime=image%2F*" with "https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJr5wjlHrkCwHCncvbyion9-809ctC7O4SCJR5EZar7Nl1liO1sfIi67WNMlT2ZE0f3vMVfsYC740Vwk1QDFB0x-dQl-KaeYyy36d1XuNrOVxRRCXJoUhtjePI5mM4L_626w2lc8R6N6vh/s1600/colin+first+pitch+Spray.JPG" --><!-- Blogger automated replacement: "https://images-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com/gadgets/proxy?url=http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F-mQ5LE_99lmc%2FVTv_o0WdKNI%2FAAAAAAAAEGY%2Fy8leeQCgSOA%2Fs1600%2Ffirst%252Bpitch%252Bguiness.JPG&container=blogger&gadget=a&rewriteMime=image%2F*" with "https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQjA480YaeHUeuqed3Adg4DoxhXfn4fSXgeXLkl0izwtFd7fowmmBNEt3B3lfDjDVsWAOFJ8tH8it6bwym_AMYTrTEs-aZ5k8JIas_2XeLEyy8_JZXCnlTENtkKxtzXzQLr3hEjwZEu5U-/s1600/first+pitch+guiness.JPG" --><!-- Blogger automated replacement: "https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQjA480YaeHUeuqed3Adg4DoxhXfn4fSXgeXLkl0izwtFd7fowmmBNEt3B3lfDjDVsWAOFJ8tH8it6bwym_AMYTrTEs-aZ5k8JIas_2XeLEyy8_JZXCnlTENtkKxtzXzQLr3hEjwZEu5U-/s1600/first+pitch+guiness.JPG" with "https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQjA480YaeHUeuqed3Adg4DoxhXfn4fSXgeXLkl0izwtFd7fowmmBNEt3B3lfDjDVsWAOFJ8tH8it6bwym_AMYTrTEs-aZ5k8JIas_2XeLEyy8_JZXCnlTENtkKxtzXzQLr3hEjwZEu5U-/s1600/first+pitch+guiness.JPG" --><!-- Blogger automated replacement: "https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJr5wjlHrkCwHCncvbyion9-809ctC7O4SCJR5EZar7Nl1liO1sfIi67WNMlT2ZE0f3vMVfsYC740Vwk1QDFB0x-dQl-KaeYyy36d1XuNrOVxRRCXJoUhtjePI5mM4L_626w2lc8R6N6vh/s1600/colin+first+pitch+Spray.JPG" with "https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJr5wjlHrkCwHCncvbyion9-809ctC7O4SCJR5EZar7Nl1liO1sfIi67WNMlT2ZE0f3vMVfsYC740Vwk1QDFB0x-dQl-KaeYyy36d1XuNrOVxRRCXJoUhtjePI5mM4L_626w2lc8R6N6vh/s1600/colin+first+pitch+Spray.JPG" -->Adrian Nelhamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00217987888642027655noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4993953531346932548.post-28121232102881333282015-04-17T05:09:00.003-07:002015-04-17T05:09:32.047-07:00Videos covering the basics of climbing waterfall ice<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Another couple of videos I put together while over in Canada last month.....</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Learning the basics on how to climbing waterfall ice -</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="https://vimeo.com/123576751">https://vimeo.com/123576751</a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Learning the basics Part 2 -</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="https://vimeo.com/124805035">https://vimeo.com/124805035</a></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Hope they help.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Safe climbing</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Ade</span>Adrian Nelhamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00217987888642027655noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4993953531346932548.post-65966649716694672682015-04-17T04:59:00.002-07:002015-04-17T04:59:17.379-07:00How to build an ice screw belay<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">While over in Canada I did another short video....this time on building an ice screw belay.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<a href="https://vimeo.com/123267509"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">https://vimeo.com/123267509</span></a><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Hope it helps.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Safe climbing</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Ade</span>Adrian Nelhamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00217987888642027655noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4993953531346932548.post-71209550148982087812015-03-13T11:21:00.000-07:002015-03-13T11:21:05.806-07:00Taking Coils<span id="goog_1068880140"></span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"></a><span id="goog_1068880141"></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I've done a short video demonstrating how to take rope coils and tie them off</span>.<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="https://vimeo.com/122109235">How to 'Take Coils' and tie them off video</a></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Sorry about the background noise.......but hope it helps!</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Safe Climbing</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Ade </span><br />
<br />
<br />Adrian Nelhamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00217987888642027655noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4993953531346932548.post-4202392770350145512015-03-02T05:36:00.000-08:002015-03-02T07:26:50.596-08:00Arc'teryx Psiphon AR Pant review<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Psiphon AR Pant</span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Our new partnership with Arc’teryx
has meant that we’ve had a good look at the range of kit they offer and the
chance to test a number of great pieces.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">I’ve been using a good
spread of kit this winter from the Arc’teryx Mountain Guide Pro Shell jacket,
their lightweight Nuclei and Atom Core Loft jackets, the new super light Alpha 45 back pack, gloves
and the R320a fully adjustable harness. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">I’ve also put the Psiphon
AR Pant through its paces over the past 6 weeks of winter climbing.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw7B1mXYAKKZIvHqhhK0owoecKbf4M-lFg6GImJSlepuDDwuLtaPb73Pgx0Uw895XQ-kzVji9y5PRLyV-PVq0UyjtR0EXPuEb736WQcWXIq_0Wj-kVwP0KgWB7guz7xW2nnvO4VS_Qs0kT/s1600/Psiphon-AR-Pant-Black.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw7B1mXYAKKZIvHqhhK0owoecKbf4M-lFg6GImJSlepuDDwuLtaPb73Pgx0Uw895XQ-kzVji9y5PRLyV-PVq0UyjtR0EXPuEb736WQcWXIq_0Wj-kVwP0KgWB7guz7xW2nnvO4VS_Qs0kT/s1600/Psiphon-AR-Pant-Black.png" height="320" width="288" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Fabric</span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">The Psiphon AR Pant is a
Burly™ Double Weave softshell fabric. The softshell fabric itself has a four way
stretch weave combining the strength and durability of a nylon face fabric with
the comfort and moisture wicking performance of a microfiber polyester fabric. The
DWR finish that Arc’teryx gives the pant adds a water repellent finish that’s
made the pant super versatile in all my icefall and mixed climbing activities
this winter, I’ve hardly worn my Pro Shell over trousers ice climbing this
winter even in heavy snow or when climbing a wet pitch on the ice! I’ve stayed
warm and dry the whole time. (I’ve been wearing the Arc’teryx Phase AR moisture
wicking base layer thermal bottoms underneath the Psiphon AR Pant for extra
warmth and comfort on the colder days – the combinations great, even during high
activity on the longer treks to the remoter icefall's)</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj34l7KFGkP7N-BKMnjyPXU2PzLHQIHm5bmyBWfcV67Y3MiDR3KPfvxgCcQQUlSglv3wkqxrF8TnNN_56EaeQ-hdM0qJ1CXiMUbqqMu0nhLbojx86qZQxxqvw-05Js5oUHd9LG8ydrOGjdd/s1600/me.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj34l7KFGkP7N-BKMnjyPXU2PzLHQIHm5bmyBWfcV67Y3MiDR3KPfvxgCcQQUlSglv3wkqxrF8TnNN_56EaeQ-hdM0qJ1CXiMUbqqMu0nhLbojx86qZQxxqvw-05Js5oUHd9LG8ydrOGjdd/s1600/me.JPG" height="640" width="436" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Design</span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">It’s a simple but very tailored
design with two </span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">low
profile zippered hand pockets and a larger thigh pocket which is easily
accessible and useful for carrying route topo’s! The pants have an interesting
waist belt and buckle closure with the buckle hooking over the desired loop for the best comfort and fit. Again simple and works well feeling both secure, flush
fitting and comfortable under the harness waist belt. Clients have also noticed
how tapered and neat the Psiphon AR Pant looks from the knee down. This
definitely helps ice climbing especially on the steeper pitches when you need
to be able to see your front points for that extra security. I haven’t touched
the trousers once with my crampon points even post holing in the deep snow
getting to the base of some of the more remoter icefalls. A ¼ length ankle zip and gusset helps
both with tightening up your boots after a long approach and before the steeper
ice climbing and also for a more comfortable fit over touring ski boots for those
powder days when the ice is bombed out!</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Like I said for me winter climbing, layered with the
Phase AR mid-weight thermal bottoms, the Psiphon AR Pant is a winner - a super
comfortable soft stretch fabric, warm, breathable and repels most of what the
winter has thrown at me so far. For the odd longer Alpine winter route which requires that
extra commitment or working in the foulest of weather, I’ll just thrown over the
top my pair of Alpha AR Gore Tex Pro shell Pants – Job done!</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Safe climbing</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Ade </span></span></div>
Adrian Nelhamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00217987888642027655noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4993953531346932548.post-32142284487169494572015-02-28T05:17:00.000-08:002015-02-28T05:17:10.395-08:00Making an Abalakov or 'V' Thread<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I made this instructional video with Adrian Walter last week, on how to build an Abalakov or 'V' Thread, to create a safe and solid anchor in the ice. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">You generally do this when you need to abseil a route or pitch and can't find any fixed anchors such as bolts, pegs or fixed gear around trees in place.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Sometimes also if the bolts are badly positioned and the ice is so thick in very good years, you can struggle to find the abseil bolts and chains like I had one year at the top of Repentence in Valnontey so you need to build an Abalakov or 'V' Thread or even 2 if the ice isn't great and it's a big steep pitch!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="https://vimeo.com/120873917">Adrian Nelhams building an Abalakov Thread Vimeo</a> </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Hope it's of some interest/help!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We also finished last week on some great ice....</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdfY67LPwpIU1X9aJ0h3_0SsEAEJCNJLvcJF16irUvZ_CWlj0bbWdf__7m74ITd1cFWY3R6F1aOesjqGsMVimOI1Q98sa7jMqg6UIpnm2N6WrUpJtthyfkrKT-yAz1DPoa2yOI3GsAFQnO/s1600/ben+tutttto.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdfY67LPwpIU1X9aJ0h3_0SsEAEJCNJLvcJF16irUvZ_CWlj0bbWdf__7m74ITd1cFWY3R6F1aOesjqGsMVimOI1Q98sa7jMqg6UIpnm2N6WrUpJtthyfkrKT-yAz1DPoa2yOI3GsAFQnO/s1600/ben+tutttto.JPG" height="640" width="434" /> </a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ben Tibbetts enjoying the lead in Valeille, Lillaz yesterday</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Naomi Boxall cruising her first grade 4</span> <span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">- Happy Days!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Safe climbing</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Ade</span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> </span>Adrian Nelhamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00217987888642027655noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4993953531346932548.post-89632023404461649322015-02-26T13:32:00.000-08:002015-02-26T13:32:01.628-08:00Ice this week<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Great ice climbing again this past week.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT5Xm5xyljUvMDftH8JqAaUNoULPSfng447NS3h8PUMpy5D2HjMHO6Ut_mb8yW1gHqJycJZBAGwFvNZ758U2fYpVvvyGmAHAPdA0_KVs99JORvKob8cyJ5lQagcO9fcghpOEmJyLQFnXbY/s1600/ben+vv.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT5Xm5xyljUvMDftH8JqAaUNoULPSfng447NS3h8PUMpy5D2HjMHO6Ut_mb8yW1gHqJycJZBAGwFvNZ758U2fYpVvvyGmAHAPdA0_KVs99JORvKob8cyJ5lQagcO9fcghpOEmJyLQFnXbY/s1600/ben+vv.JPG" height="611" width="640" /> </a><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Ben Tibbetts enjoying L'Acheronte in Valnontey </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">High up in L'Acheronte, Valnontey Cogne </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLOYXvn8y56rQmbns6AVtzQRfG1agQNgqwMYzzmnYYOn5WeYp3Jy3RSn9_tGSX0OiLcurZvMAGaFgQg2ZFympwzb568twWlbTbLItrX30AT3yHFXbckpX0TcmNSf55wuGe-nFKmDLMsgOx/s1600/ben+banner.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLOYXvn8y56rQmbns6AVtzQRfG1agQNgqwMYzzmnYYOn5WeYp3Jy3RSn9_tGSX0OiLcurZvMAGaFgQg2ZFympwzb568twWlbTbLItrX30AT3yHFXbckpX0TcmNSf55wuGe-nFKmDLMsgOx/s1600/ben+banner.JPG" height="380" width="640" /> </a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Secret spot! Cogne</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Ben Tibbetts enjoy some great ice high up in 'Lillaz Gully' today</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Will Boxall really enjoying his climbing in 'Lillaz Gully' today</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Great ice in the narrow 'mixed' section at the moment and no need for any rock protection</span> <span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">which was good as we didn't have any!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A beautiful part of the world! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Routes I know in good condition today here in Cogne......</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Cogne Valnontey - </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Patri de Droite</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Patri de Gauche </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">L'Acheronte</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Monday Money</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Di Fronte al Tradimento</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Cogne Valeille -</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Lillaz Gully</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">E Tutto Relativo </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Pattinaggio Artistico</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Stella Artice</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Chandelle Levure</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tuborg</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">People have climbed 'Cold Couloir' but be very careful of the snow conditions at the moment.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We passed Lau Bij today coming down from 'Lilla Gully' and it looks very washed out from all the sun it's been getting.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Valsavarenche - Antares and Ravanod are in good condition.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Hope that helps</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Safe climbing</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ade </span></div>
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Adrian Nelhamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00217987888642027655noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4993953531346932548.post-75297503855534143582015-02-21T09:21:00.002-08:002015-02-21T09:21:55.142-08:00Bellissimo!<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Great climbing again today.....'you've gotta love the Italian Alps for ice!'</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Me enjoying some steep ice today in Cogne</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Abseiling down I managed to take this of another team on the same pillar coming up behind.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Safe climbing</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Ade </span></div>
<br />Adrian Nelhamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00217987888642027655noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4993953531346932548.post-300832560391220502015-02-20T08:43:00.003-08:002015-02-20T08:43:33.860-08:00E Tutto Relativo<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Headed up into Lillaz and Valeille again today</span>.<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">'E Tutto Relativo' in great condition today out of the sun</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Adrian Walter enjoying the steep pillar on 'E Tutto Relativo', Lillaz.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">'Cristal Guisey' in good condition today, but 'Eau de Cristaux' to the left hasn't formed well this year and looks pretty washed out in the sun. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Beautiful weather and another very warm day in Lillaz today - +7 degrees back at the car in Lillaz</span> <span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">and it was minus 14 degrees when we left La Barme this morning!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Fantastic views looking north, directly down the Cogne Valley from Lillaz at the South Face of Mt Blanc. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Safe Climbing</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ade </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></div>
<br />Adrian Nelhamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00217987888642027655noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4993953531346932548.post-12723227702129450232015-02-19T09:26:00.000-08:002015-02-19T09:26:20.789-08:00Alps Ice today<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Fantastic weather here in the Alps at the moment and the ice just keeps getting better! </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW2JOlKDb0YKWJm926P9YfkVFlkofa9F1KaqYr7yOZgKRT4ADS4N7WWH5F-ZE-gH7c6oQLioazdRrqJEEwjOU3CMl9VLq0chDyDhyl77luVKLoXcMycdSz515QDYmGmyoo4ukfsocuFMdo/s1600/DSC00801.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW2JOlKDb0YKWJm926P9YfkVFlkofa9F1KaqYr7yOZgKRT4ADS4N7WWH5F-ZE-gH7c6oQLioazdRrqJEEwjOU3CMl9VLq0chDyDhyl77luVKLoXcMycdSz515QDYmGmyoo4ukfsocuFMdo/s1600/DSC00801.JPG" height="300" width="400" /> </a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Great views up </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Valnontey yesterday</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Adrian Walter enjoying the 5th and final pitch on 'Patri de Gauche'</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Adrian Walter staying focused on the mixed section in Lillaz Gully today </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Great conditions on Lau Bij this afternoon, Lillaz </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Highs of +8 in Cogne mid-day yesterday and overnight lows of minus 15 this morning at La Barme. Big swings in temperature change to be careful of, if you're climbing on steep ice that's seen any amount of sun. We climbed ice today that's seen no sun and hence had a lot less temperature change and the climbing was great.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Stay safe</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Ade </span> </div>
Adrian Nelhamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00217987888642027655noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4993953531346932548.post-3182101706838091672015-01-30T02:07:00.001-08:002015-01-30T02:07:20.042-08:00Valsavarenche yesterday<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Great conditions on Antares in Valsavarenche yesterday.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Stuart McAleese enjoying Antares yesterday in Valsavarenche, Gran Paradiso </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Antares in Valsavarenche, Gran Paradiso. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Woke up to 30cm of new snow here in Cogne today.....it also looks as though there's been a fair amount of wind blowing the snow around so take care. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">La Barme is the place to stay in Valnontey, Cogne.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">La Barme's a great family run hotel in the heart of all the ice climbing here in Cogne. The hotel's warm, comfortable and after a long day climbing the ice you return to a super efficient kit drying room, a sauna and then plenty of great food at dinner - what more do you want!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Andrea clearing the snow this morning</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Cogne's also known for it's 'Ski de Fond' with 45km of world class trails which weave up and down all the surrounding valley's. The roundabout when entering Cogne has a great stone sculpture reinforcing this. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Safe climbing</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Ade</span></div>
Adrian Nelhamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00217987888642027655noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4993953531346932548.post-29421107833123557192015-01-28T09:40:00.003-08:002015-01-28T09:40:52.591-08:00Cogne today<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Headed back up Valnontey today and climbed Patri de Gauche.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Climbing pitch 5 on 'Patri de Gauche', Valnontey, Cogne.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Topping out and enjoying the final pitch on 'Patri de Gauche' today, Valnontey, Cogne. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A team on 'Patri de Droite' today. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Climbers on 'Patri de Droite' today, Valnontey, Cogne.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Minus 12 when we left La Barme this morning, so much colder today and very little wind. Stu McAleese was guiding on Thoule today and there was another team on 'Di Fronte Al Tradimento' which also looks in great condition.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Safe climbing</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Ade</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>Adrian Nelhamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00217987888642027655noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4993953531346932548.post-56024126375987145162015-01-27T13:56:00.000-08:002015-01-27T13:56:10.568-08:00Valnontey today<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We headed up Valnonty today and climbed Patri de Droite which gave great steep, but featured climbing.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The top pitch of Patri de Droite in great condition </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Peter Reid enjoying his first ice climbing leads on Patri today, Valnontey, Cogne.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Peter Reid leading the first pitch on Patri today </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Looking across the valley to Erfaulet today </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Also across the valley from Patri climbers on 'Di Fronte al Tradimento' today</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> 'Di Fronte al Tradimento' today</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There were also climbing teams on Gran Val, Valmiana, Thoule, Patri de Gauche and L'Acheronte which all look in good condition.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">We observed strong winds up high today which looked like it was moving a lot of snow around and it's been much warmer minus 1 degrees when we left La Barme at 8am this morning.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Safe climbing</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Ade </span></div>
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Adrian Nelhamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00217987888642027655noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4993953531346932548.post-8240328422416131532015-01-26T10:39:00.000-08:002015-01-26T10:39:00.082-08:00Cogne conditions today<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Cogne today, drove up to Lillaz and walked up into Valeille to climb Chandelle Levure.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH_urN8a1_dor9rhU7zjaJseW_9XUuhpzB5mJS6LLIP1iVJeblEc-mi8EBiLf54RCIsbu93H3_GRd9eJ_MTig-GqWGgUNqu1_NuGAdXbZKIfCc7CVOeZaN7gnipYg8TJEm-dkoOc8B1KLa/s1600/DSC00609.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH_urN8a1_dor9rhU7zjaJseW_9XUuhpzB5mJS6LLIP1iVJeblEc-mi8EBiLf54RCIsbu93H3_GRd9eJ_MTig-GqWGgUNqu1_NuGAdXbZKIfCc7CVOeZaN7gnipYg8TJEm-dkoOc8B1KLa/s1600/DSC00609.JPG" height="640" width="488" /> </a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Pattinaggio Artistico</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjleiJZ7FyWQxnF8P8qMcgvpkTrE8jMx7NdlbyV14fck_2hEgXdJ-q-C14MlQDrZ5bcYBUf7qKRdrCJBiqEPaqLb8bFJ-YnRqaKVHeAAXcsZmfjALE3b4t8HqqB0ukcxrwJlyr_E3ppdU6h/s1600/DSC00612.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjleiJZ7FyWQxnF8P8qMcgvpkTrE8jMx7NdlbyV14fck_2hEgXdJ-q-C14MlQDrZ5bcYBUf7qKRdrCJBiqEPaqLb8bFJ-YnRqaKVHeAAXcsZmfjALE3b4t8HqqB0ukcxrwJlyr_E3ppdU6h/s1600/DSC00612.JPG" height="640" width="474" /> </a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Tuborg </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-tGxE8HZem8jsdCt2bM3jtnA0GR3KsmN-0tEhqUCSdk27-2uIDb3tKsKv22hI9xXCzDPhn1_BdXci09cSVUmQHxzOkIX0dYzdwGisWUzd791vn_xzaZFo8cTpFJiB-W_VZiWu1b0uUtDR/s1600/DSC00613.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-tGxE8HZem8jsdCt2bM3jtnA0GR3KsmN-0tEhqUCSdk27-2uIDb3tKsKv22hI9xXCzDPhn1_BdXci09cSVUmQHxzOkIX0dYzdwGisWUzd791vn_xzaZFo8cTpFJiB-W_VZiWu1b0uUtDR/s1600/DSC00613.JPG" height="640" width="326" /> </a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Left - Stella Artice, right - Inachevee Conception</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA0_-OPphrBzqIybNhZsNAmyRHe7ddsaZzhjqWA2tYSpmcP0TONNOmf9Waioe-JSmnMrekJXYX2nDlEd4TmLaB82IJ1d_zOyLtcqbE1gjBkocJMMOR1CUPct_umtvrQbWnS4MCWXnGl0Ra/s1600/DSC00614.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA0_-OPphrBzqIybNhZsNAmyRHe7ddsaZzhjqWA2tYSpmcP0TONNOmf9Waioe-JSmnMrekJXYX2nDlEd4TmLaB82IJ1d_zOyLtcqbE1gjBkocJMMOR1CUPct_umtvrQbWnS4MCWXnGl0Ra/s1600/DSC00614.JPG" height="640" width="308" /> </a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Cold Couloir </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZoIM7UfSyGw8AZML5ysnv60f8dlRL5B0rz0gtV1XYysEHv2nOAoDhqPqWI1wPJx7Ez7q9bWE_hr8PYKXDoAhYG9qWOQ8M4PrCei5boaclTZxmm6vicvKerniXXKCDoUQalZBerwT1k30z/s1600/DSC00580.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZoIM7UfSyGw8AZML5ysnv60f8dlRL5B0rz0gtV1XYysEHv2nOAoDhqPqWI1wPJx7Ez7q9bWE_hr8PYKXDoAhYG9qWOQ8M4PrCei5boaclTZxmm6vicvKerniXXKCDoUQalZBerwT1k30z/s1600/DSC00580.JPG" height="640" width="444" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Last pitch of Chandelle Levure in great condition today, Valeille, Lillaz</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Valnontey tomorrow.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Safe climbing</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Ade </span></div>
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Adrian Nelhamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00217987888642027655noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4993953531346932548.post-18787418420052340712015-01-21T13:14:00.000-08:002015-01-21T13:14:11.915-08:00Point Five today<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Point Five on the Ben in great shape today.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZQ_UAHMCmQgkB10xvz8C8B0WReowS-rfNolMXwIqlZLUZRnSe8wZhaGngklWOZe9pHJaj1w5a2eHRC18Im1Cn0jyRsGwdCfCRbo45c9VlX4Sb4hUqp-mATz13q2rz06iPrtXbJGli-nOv/s1600/photo+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZQ_UAHMCmQgkB10xvz8C8B0WReowS-rfNolMXwIqlZLUZRnSe8wZhaGngklWOZe9pHJaj1w5a2eHRC18Im1Cn0jyRsGwdCfCRbo45c9VlX4Sb4hUqp-mATz13q2rz06iPrtXbJGli-nOv/s1600/photo+-+Copy.JPG" height="640" width="632" /> </a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Stuart McAleese enjoying some great conditions climbing 'Point Five', Ben Nevis, Scotland. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Safe climbing</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Ade </span>Adrian Nelhamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00217987888642027655noreply@blogger.com0