A knock on the door this morning...........it was the post women!
Letters blah, blah and then a very heavy book encased in thick protective cardboard.
I ripped off the cardboard and inside was 'A Passion for Mountains'
The book's been in the pipeline for some 18months now and finally its been published which is very pleasing.
It's a book which documents both personal climbing and mountaineering adventures by members of the British Association of Mountain Guides.
It's edited by Hannah Burrows-Smith and forwarded by Iain Peter published by Hale.
The book starts out by explaining a little about the IFMGA and then giving the reader a brief history about the British Mountain Guides. The book is then broken down into sections and then the chapters are split into personal accounts from British Mountain Guides like myself.
My account is titled 'Haunted by the Ghost'
It's great to now have the book published, pulling together accounts and adventures from other fellow Guides and great to do it in association with the BMG.
Enjoy the read
Ade
The Sorcerer, Ghost Valley
Thursday, 20 March 2014
Monday, 17 March 2014
Hanwag Sirius GTX boot review
Hanwag
Sirius GTX
Sirius,
the brightest star in the sky? Well they’re certainly up there with all the
major competitors when it comes to high performance mountain boots!
The
Sirius is about 1900g for the pair which is similar to the Scarpa equivalent
and a little lighter than the Sportiva which are all great boots but all different
fits giving you a great choice in finding something that fits and feels great when
it comes to shelling out on a new pair of Mountain boots.
The
Sirius is a neat fitting high end performance climbing boot with the upper made
from soft Bergrind Leather with very few seams meaning a lot more comfort and less
rubbing and pressure points. Hanwag uses a special technique, which makes it
possible to reduce the number of seams. It sounds simple, but it involves very
complex craftsmanship which Hanwag have had experience of for over 90 years!
The
soft upper allows maximum flexibility in all directions making hiking and
walking over easier angled snow /ice slopes in crampons comfortable and allows
absolute precision when climbing very steep, technical and fragile ice.
Matched
to this the ridged Vibram sole unit which gives you a great platform when front
pointing on the steepest of ice and great edging when climbing more mixed rocky
ground.
The
sole is also cushioned at the heal and fully compatible with a ‘step in’
crampon with a ‘welt’ at the front which accommodates most bails.
The
rubber rand which extends around the base of the boot just above the sole unit
gives the boot more durably waterproof, gives increased stability and protects
the upper so that it lasts longer.
The
lacing system includes a ‘Click Clamp’ locking D-ring system which I‘ve found incredibly
useful when I really want to crank the boots up tight for the steeper pitches (The
D-rings once locked keep the lower part of the lacing system tight while you
finish lacing the upper part)
I’ve
also found the boots to be incredibly breathable which has kept my feet dry
during high activity walking into the icefalls this winter and hence warm feet
when you slow down and start climbing and hanging around on the belays.
This
must be due to the Gore-Tex lining and tradition leather outer which must
breathe more effectively than a lot of the other largely synthetic boots with
numerous seams and different panels.
The
insulation is Durathrem which coupled with the breathability helps keep the
feet warm even on the older days I had in the mountains this winter.
I’ve
been used to using a boot with an integral gaiter for the past 10years and
initially missed finishing lacing the boot up by zipping up a gaiter over the
top which gave me the feeling that the boot was completely weather proof, warm
and kept any snow getting in around the laces.
But I
needn’t have worried as the Sirius with its high bellowed tongue, warm inner
lining and waterproofness made me realise it was just a change of habit and as
much of a visual thing as anything and like I say my ankle gaiters kept any
loose snow from getting on over the top of the boot and my laces neatly out of
the way.
They’ve
been great boots climbing the ice this winter. Try them on and if they fit your
feet, you won’t be disappointed, they even look great!
Ade
Tuesday, 11 March 2014
The Classic Ginat on the North Face of Les Droites
The Ginat IV 5, 1000m on the North Face of Les Droites
FA 24 July 1978 by Jean Ginat, Gilles Modica, Jean-Pierre Simond and Jean-Marc Troussier
Note - Jean Ginat died during the descent to the Glacier de Talefre
B - NE Face of the Signal Vallot III AD 750m
FA 24 July 1978 by Jean Ginat, Gilles Modica, Jean-Pierre Simond and Jean-Marc Troussier
Note - Jean Ginat died during the descent to the Glacier de Talefre
The Ginat on the North Face of Les Droites
The Ginat on the North Face of Les Droites
Topo
Route - The Ginat
Grade - IV 5 (TD)
Length - 1000m
Mountain - Les Droites
Aspect - North Face
Approach - from the
Argentiere Hut
After crossing the
Bergshrund you have 2 options, if conditions permit head straight
up the ice runnel to
the bottom of the central icefield (sections of 80 degrees and
about 200m) or head
rightwards into the large gully and from the top of this head out
leftwards via the
‘Messner Ramp’ (sections of 80 degrees and often mixed climbing).
If the the Ginat is
in condition then the ‘Messner Ramp is the reliable option.
The Central icefield
is about 350m in height after leaving the ‘Messner Ramp’ and is about 60
degrees
At the top of the
icefield you climb the crux which is a steep 85 degree exit pitch taking the
left most of the 3 exit gullies.
From the top of this
pitch climb directly up and right over 80 degree mixed terrain to reach a small
icy bay. Continue up from here climbing short steep sections of ice/mixed
terrain for about 200m
Then climb the final
steep exit pitch (up to about 85 degrees) which leads up to the obvious snow
couloir and on to the ‘Breche des Droites’ (about 100m)
Descent
From the ‘Breche des
Droites’ follow the steep gully directly down the south side via about 8 abseils to
the first section of glacier. From here head down and left meeting up with the
upper Talefre Glacier via an abseil from rocks on the lefthand side.
A - Ginat IV 5 1000m
C - Au Coeur Du Monde III D 700m
D - NE Couloir IV 4 1000m
E - Fynn-Goudet Route IV D 1000m
Inspiring and a great late spring early season route when in condition.
Safe climbing
Ade
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