Tierra Col Hood Jacket review

Test Conditions:

I have carried the Tierra Col Hood Jacket with me most days in the Alps this summer and I have worn it most mornings and on summit days on most of the 4000m peaks I climbed. At times it made the difference summiting or turning back. It was a key piece in Canada last winter and Kyrgyzstan this autumn, where I practically lived in it.

Fabric:

I love the strong ethical stance that Tierra has stuck to throughout the company’s history and this jacket is no exception to that rule. The polyester is recycled, it’s packed with PrimaLoft Eco padding and the jacket is also carbon free so is massively better for the planet.

The outer shell, made from 100% recycled polyester, was totally windproof even when summiting Mt Blanc in gale force winds and freezing temperatures. Even at minus 20 in a howling gale high on the Bossons Ridge nearing the summit I felt warm and snug, thanks to the generous layer of PrimaLoft Eco insulation keeping me warm.

The design is simple, but totally functional. The Polyester outer may not be the hardest wearing of fabrics, but it’s light, packs up small, is warm and a fantastic secondary layer. As a mountain guide I can’t recommend it enough to anyone setting off to tackle the higher Alpine Peaks, the greater ranges or winter climbing in the UK and beyond.

 This summer on the summit of Mt Blanc 4810m

Fit:

The Col Hood is designed with a little space to fit over a fleece, soft shell or your Roc Blanc jacket. Having said that it’s a trimmer fit than many of the other insulated jackets I’ve used in the past, with a generous arm length and overall jacket length dropping down just below your harness belt keeping your lower back toasty. A 2-way zip allows you to belay and tie on without any fuss and it has a chest pocket ample enough for a map and compass. Two low front hand warmer pockets finish off the outer shell of the jacket. The hood is a good fit over my helmet and has a double adjustment system to keep it well cinched up and stops it flapping around in the worst conditions.

The synthetic nature of the jacket makes it a no-nonsense jacket for warmth in all weathers and conditions, even when wet it keeps you dry. The polyester outer is both windproof and water repellent. But what it’s not is a huge winter duvet that’s heavy and bulky to carry and restrictive when climbing. The Col Hood is light (only 430g) packs up small but has enough PrimaLoft Eco fill for some of the worst weather while out on the move.

The weather in the Lakes has changed and I find I’m pulling out the Col Hood more often than not to use as a warm outer layer that’s light and comfortable when heading down to the bouldering gym or into town on an errand! 

Conclusion:

If you haven’t got one buy one!  It will become your number one best friend both on the hill and kicking around town.

Slovenija Alpine Rock

Back home now after a very adventurous week climbing in the Kamniske in Savinjske mountains of Slovenija.

We'd initially headed NW from Llubijana past Bled and up the Dolina Vrata into the Triglavski National Park, hoping to climb Triglav via a route on the North Face.
It's an incredible 1000m rock wall with routes of all grades that weave their way through some very impressive scenery and climbing.
I was there in the late 80's climbing with a then Yugoslavian climber Slavko Sveticicč and we climbed 2 or 3 routes linked together which took us directly up the centre of the face which unfortunatly I can't remember the name of now.
Every since that trip which was an extended time living with Slavko in his home village on the edge of the Julian Alps, Slovenija as it's called now has always felt like a special place.
They were very impressionable times in my life and the climbing defiantly left its mark and went some way to moulding me to who I am now.
I met Slavko in New Zealand 6 months earlier and we climbed together in the Mt Cook region, having success on some of the hard classics at the time -  South Face of Mt Hicks, Mt Cook and the Balfour Face on Mt Tasman......
I cut my round the world trip short, Arapiles would have to wait and I headed home with Slavko back to Yugoslavia where we hung out and climbed together for 6 months.

I'd been back the last few winters both mixed climbing and icefall climbing and also linking up as a side with local alpinist Marko Prezelj who new Slavko. 
I enjoy the people and the special place they now call Slovenija, the mountains, forests, rivers and valley's, but I was lacking an understanding of the layout of the ranges you only get from going there in summer.

So back I went last week to try and fill in some gaps both in climbing but also in memory.

We pulled up in torrential rain at the alpine club hut and dried our gear buy the fire!
The next morning the clouds partially cleared and our dry rock was now covered in fresh snow!

 

Our glimpse of Triglav's North Face on the first day

With it being North Facing and very cold there was no way this was going to clear any time soon so we needed a plan.

Marko had wanted me to explore north of where he lives in Kamnik in a range called the Kamniske in Savinjske mountains which he thought would be very interesting.

So we turned around, headed east to Kamnik and then North, then up into the Dolina Logarska, a beautiful valley leading up into the heart of the mountains.

It's such a beautiful area and a stunning drive over the tops, down and then following the stunning Savinja River which cascades down from it's source in the Kamniske Mountains.

From here we headed up to what we thought would be the main hut and climbing area. We packed stove, sleeping bag, food...........thinking that it would be like the main massif areas where the huts shut in September. No! the gaurdien was pleased to see us and was there until the end of October which gives you the idea of how long the season is here.

The best part was that he served food and we were the only customers!

We spent the rest of the week here, exploring the rock walls, mountains, crags and trails.

The more you see of the place the more you want to explore!

 

Welcome to Okreslju

 

The Okreslju Hut with impressive limestone peaks all around.

A 40/60min walk behind the hut is over 80/100 routes!

The route on the left is - Szalay-Gerinov greben 400m on Turska Gora

on the right - Steber Stajerske Rinke 800m Stajerska Rinka  

 

  Szalay-Gerinov greben 400m on Turska Gora, Kaminske Savinjske Alpe

 Very adventurous climbing and serious at times, traditional gear on shattered North Facing limestone!

Steber Stajerske Rinke 800m Stajerska Rinka, Kaminske Savinjske Alpe

Adrian Walter seconding the lower pitches of

Steber Stajerske Rinke 800m Stajerska Rinka, Kaminske Savinjske Alpe

 Routes on Mrzla Gora, Kaminske Savinjske Alpe

Left - Pajkova mreza 160m

Right - Gamsove plati 160m

 

Adrian enjoying the climbing and sun! on Mrzla Gora

 

The only other people we met in the mountains were hunting for Chamois!

 Now and then! bright blue, yellow trim Tierra hoody, ski poles............Woolen shirts, breaches and wooden alpin stocks!

 

We had a great time, very adventurous, frustrating, serious at times but very inspiring all the same.

It's a lovely country and I've come away with loads of ideas for another winter trip now! Cheers Marko!

Stay safe

Ade

3 Peaks

So it's that time of year again! 

I have a busy summer in the Alps - no cycling, which leads into our Kyrgyzstan expedition - no cycling. Then I get home & a week later throw myself in the 3 Peaks Cyclocross Race, which is marketed as the toughest race of it's kind in Europe - It actually says the World but I'm not sure about that!

Anyway its tough! last year it was really tough! - low cloud with little visibility, strong winds, horizontal rain/hail, cold........we had it all.

 Heading up over Simon Fell towards the summit of Ingleborough

This year the sun shone, great visibility but the wind! Strong wasn't the word, it was gale force on the tops which made the exposed sections impossible to ride. It was hard enough pushing the bikes along the tracks we normally rode. 
I got bored & tried to ride but lost the front end & cartwheeled into the ditch at the side of the track!

Me (in the red) heading down Ingleborough towards Cold Cotes & Ingleton

The route - 
Helwith Bridge, up over Ingleborough, down to Cold Cotes, up to Ingleton, on up to Chapel-Le-Dale & over Whernside, down to Ribblehead & onto Horton in Ribblesdale, up & down Pen-Y-Ghgent & back to the finish at Helwith Bridge.

61km (41km of unsurfaced & unrideable terrain), 5000ft of ascent!

 Me heading up to Pen-Y-Ghent

It's a tough race, but great fun! already looking forward to next year & this time I'm going to be better prepared!

Rob Jebb split the field & won by a country mile - Rob's 10th win in the last 11 years, not bad for a family man with 3 kids!

We had the ISM AGM here all last week, but I didn't mind - it gave the legs a rest!

Enjoy

Ade

Lakes yesterday

Great weather here in the Lakes this past couple of days...........dry & very mild.

I had a friend passing through from Australia who stayed for a couple of days on his way out to the States, so it was great to show him around a little.

We headed up into Langdale & climbed Pluto on Raven Crag.

 Tim starting up the 3rd pitch of Pluto HVS

Great varied climbing, with the route weaving it's way up through the steepest parts of the crag.

Yesterday we headed back through Ambleside & on over Dunmail Raise towards Keswick. We stopped off on the way at Castle Rock & climbed Gazebo Direct HVS. This has got to be one of the best routes of it's grade in the Lakes! We stopped in Ambleside for a brew with Woody on the way through & it was Woody who reminded me of the route & yes the climbing's fantastic - if you've not done it................!

We then headed around into Borrowdale & headed up to Reecastle - I climbed Guillotine E3 & Tim lead The Rack Direct HVS - again awesome routes on fantastic steep, compact, volcanic rock.

The awesome barreling wall of Reecastle in Borrowadle - Left is the line of the Rack Direct & right is the steeper line of Guillotine E3

Woody here leading Guillotine E3 at Reecastle last year

Got home & my camera was still where I'd left it, in the office charging!! - ggrrhh.

Looking forward to getting out & enjoying some more of this weather, although it's going to be on my Cyclocross bike, as it's the 3 Peaks Cyclocross race on Sunday. I went out on the Cyclocross bike for a ride earlier in the week & Sal said jokingly 'was that ride part of your tapering down preparations for the 3 Peaks!' - I haven't been out since the start of the summer! - fingers crossed I just get around & finish at the weekend.

Safe climbing

Ade

Friction GTX test/review

In 2011 Hanwag celebrated its 90^th Anniversary with the slogan ’90 years of Alpine experience’. Hans Wagner, who founded and gave Hanwag its name was born in upper Bavaria, learning his craft of shoe making from his father and grandfather before him. Since then Hanwag has been synonymous across the globe for making quality outdoor footwear.

So Hanwag have a long distinguished pedigree for making good quality high end boots, although I'd never owned a pair! none have really caught my eye until now - the new

Friction GTX - It's a great looking boot, which I gave a run out for the first time this summer.

Well they've had as hard a season as they'll ever get, harder than some boots get in a lifetime! -  10 weeks Alpine climbing in the Swiss, French and Italian Alps guiding clients on long technical rock and mixed ridges as well as some classic North Faces, long hut walks & via Ferrata's..........culminating in a 3 week Expedition to the Tien Shan, Kyrgyzstan with shuttles up to ABC over glacier moraine & climbing virgin summits both on rock & snow/ice up to 4600m.

First Ascent - Peak Kechki Nurga Boelgon (Sunset Rock) 4600m, PD+, S/Ridge.

At-Bashi Range, Kyrgyzstan

The GTX offered superb protection in the upper by way of a hard wearing Leather/Cordura mix, which throughout the summer and away in the high mountains of Kyrgyzstan has shed the worst of the weather. 

The rubber rand that raps around the lower part of the boots gives the upper added protection and durability whilst also giving the boot a really comfortable and snug 'climbing shoe' fit and feel, helping to reduce any potential heel lift, whilst offering a more precise feel when climbing and cramponing.

The softer fabric around the cuff of the boot gives support but with added comfort and the quick and easy ‘double zone’ lacing system tailors the boot to create a great fit. 

The bellowed tongue and Gore-Tex lining keeps out the worst of the weather while keeping the feet cool in the middle of summer.

The sole is made from durable ‘Vibram Dolomit’, designed with a good tread, an ‘in-cut direction heel’ giving increased security on steep descents and a healthy ‘rocker’ under the forefoot making the long hikes into the remotest of huts a pleasure. The heel has a good deep ‘welt’ allowing for a ‘clip-on’ crampon to fix on securely. 

 First Ascent - Steep climbing near the top of Peak Cerberus ( 3 Headed Peak) 4365m, AD+, East Face/South Ridge. At-Bashi Range, Kygyzstan.

Climbing steeper rock, the boots felt neat & precise giving a nice stiff edge with plenty of security & feel through the well-designed Vibram sole unit.

It’s a great combination for summer Alpine Mountaineering with the gift of having a Duratherm insulated, Gore-Tex lining, meaning that even when on the highest Alpine summits your feet stay warm! I have to say I had some very cold days in the mountains this summer - minus 20 degrees on top of MT Blanc & similar temperatures with an added fierce cold north wind on the North Ridge of the Zinal Rothorn - probably the coldest I'd been all year! Hands freezing cold, feet warm!! 

The boots have had a hammering this last few months, but they still look great and ready to take on some mixed action this winter and another summer in the Alps next year.

The Friction GTX's are right up there with the best Summer Alpine boots available, it just needs to fit your feet! It fits mine with a little room for comfort – try it, you won’t be disappointed!

Stay safe

 

Ade

Still Alive!

Yes! & just back from another great trip to Kyrgyzstan again. This year we again visited the At-Bashi Range climbing 9 virgin summits & 4 new rock routes in the now famous Son-Kool Canyon.

It's been super busy here this tail end of the summer finishing off with a couple of great weeks in the Alps & then less than a week back home before heading back out to the land of virgin summits, yerts & kumis  (fermented mares milk!)

Rewind back to my last weeks.............& upto the Cabane du Mountet

 Me working the North Ridge of the Zinal Rothorn 4,221m AD

 The fantastic panorama from the Cabane du Mountet

In the centre is one of my favourite Swiss peaks, the Dent Blanche & looking left the Obergabelhorn with is huge triangular North Face. Left again you can just see the summit of the Matterhorn which looks like it's on fire.

The Classic North Face of the Obergabelhorn 4,063m TD-

 The Classic North Face & East North East Ridge of the Dent Blanche 4,356m

The North Face of the Dent Blanche is regarded as one of the great mixed faces in the Alps

North Face Original Route - TD+ 950m FA K Schneider K Singer

An historic ascent & one that was well ahead of its time

East North East Ridge (Viereselsgrat) – D 1,100m FA U Almer G Baker A Pollinger & J Stafford Anderson

One of the great ascents in the history of alpine mountaineering, prompting Almer to exclaim from the summit ‘We are 4 asses (vieresels) to have climbed up this route!’ The party successfully reached Schonbiel late that day to be greeted by Gabbett & his 2 guides; Lochmatter father & son. Tragically the very next day this trio was killed while attempting the SW face of the mountain, an event which prompted Queen Victoria to write her famous letter to Gladstone expressing her disapproval of mountaineering & a suggestion that it might be banned as an activity!

 

Teaching alpine skills on the Hohlaubgrat on the Allalinhorn 4,023m AD

Tim getting stuck into the mixed section on the Hohlaubgrat, Allalinhorn, Saas Fee

 Team shot on the summit of the Allalinhorn - Teaching Alpine skills week.

Tetcha enjoying the North Ridge of the Weissmeis - AD+/D-

Great climbing & perfect granite on the North Ridge of the Weissmies - Technical Alpine Ascents week

Roccio enjoying the warm granite, on one of the many pinnacles on the North Ridge of the Weissmeis 4,023m

 Summit of the Weissmeis - with only 50mins till the last lift down & the Tele station shuts!!

We made it with a couple of minutes to spare!

La Piliar de la Pissechevre - 6a+, 6 pitches. A great rock pinnacle above Lavey down in the Rhone Valley.

We headed over to Italy & climbed the Petit North Face/North Ridge of the Gran Paradiso 4,061m

The true north face wasn't in the best condition, with the snow face now looking very grey, so we opted for the Petit North Face which gave us some great mixed climbing & a good number of pitches on steeper ice which led us up onto the North Ridge & then along it's rocky crest interspersed with a steep snow arete to the summit of the Gran Paradiso - a great climb.

We then headed down to the Refugio Vittorio Emanuelle & on down the valley to Pont & Aosta, finishing up in Arnad for some rock climbing the following day.

Tony enjoying the climbing on the Paratone, a huge rock dome above Arnad in the Aosta Valley -  6a, 11 pitches

Kari enjoying the slab climbing low down on the Paratone, Arnad, Aosta Valley.

We then headed back to Leysin in bad weather traversing L'arete des Gais Alpins the next day. It's a great ridge traverse above Montreux close to Lake Geneva graded AD+ 300m, which more often than not can make for a great bad weather option if the mountrains are blown out.

The next day we headed up into Arolla & walked into the Cabane de Dix, but woke up early on the Friday morning only to be greeted by thick cloud & snow. On the way back to Leysin we had some fum on the Evolene Via Ferrata - 500m TD

Tim having some fun on the Via Ferrata above Evolene, Arolla Valley.

So yeh, a busy couple of weeks in the Alps before I made the long journey back to the Lakes by car. It felt like a quick wash, re-pack & then I caught the train back down to Manchester to meet the guys all heading out to Kyrgyzstan.

Back home now though & working through some of the photo's I took while away, as well as writting up the virgin summits we climbed & accuratly mapping the area we visited.

 Finally Sally & myself have been steadily working towards setting up the new ISM office here at home in the Lakes. Pat Littlejohn & Steve Jones retire in a couple of weeks along with Pat's partner Eira who at the moment runs the ISM office. The office will move to the Lakes, Sally will take on running the ISM office, answering enquires, taking bookings etc & I'll take over a large part of what Pat does at the moment directing the buisness. It's been a long transition & a lot of hard work but we're both very excited about the changes. Pat's been at the helm now for over 20yrs, so no pressure!!

Fortunatly key directors Steve Monks & Terry Ralphs are also very commited, with them each having continuing roles within the buisiness, with us all working towards a great future at ISM.

More importantly, I've been down the climbing wall a couple of times since I've been back! starting to get myself strong again after a summer in the Alps - heading down for some Fly Cave action tonight!

Kyrgyzstan photo's/report to follow, HanWag Alpine boots review & some Tierra news.

Stay Safe

Ade