ISM
Kyrgyzstan (Pamirs) Virgin Summits Expedition 2015
Other
Guides Ben Tibbetts (BT), Vladimir Komissarov (VK).
Climbers
– Stephen Taylor (ST), Jason Sheldrake (JS), Daman Ranby (DR), George Da Silva
(GdS) and Michael Doyle (MD).
Area
visited – The Zaalay Range at the Eastern end of the Trans Alai Range
Good
flights via Istanbul into Osh, the second largest city in Kyrgyzstan meant the
trip started well. Vladimir and his team had already driven down from the
capital Bishkek and had were out shopping for last minute food in the many
colourful markets in the centre of the city.
Vladimir
then took us on a cultural tour of the city and the following day we loaded our
bags into the 6WD Kamaz truck and headed south to the town of Sarytash and onto
the Pamir Mountain Range, which borders Tajikistan.
Our
first camp that night was at 3285m on the flat terraced grasslands outside of
Sarytash at the foot of the Pamir Mountains. This was an amazing place and a
clear evening sky with the sun setting across glaciated peaks rising up to over
7000m got everyone focused on the detail ofthe surrounding peaks and the valleys
which we were heading into.
An
early start the next day saw our vehicle slowly picking its way over steep
hillsides and eventually down into the river delta which led to our base camp
(BC) at 3580m
The
following few days were spent acclimatising and reconnoitring the surrounding
valleys and peaks to prepare for establishing an advanced base camp
(ABC).
During
this time BT climbed Peak (PK) Charghyllgun (Thunder Peak) 4025m.
We
then established an advanced base camp in a parallel valley further east which
gave us access to some great peaks. Over the next few days’ the team climbed:
PK
Tepkich (Stepped Peak) 4785m – AN, ST, BT, DR
PK
Kuchk (Puppy Peak) 4150m – VK, JS, GdS, MD
PK
Charissa, 43654m – VK, JS, GdS, MD
PK
Jolborz (Tiger Peak) 4624m – AN, ST, BT, DR
PK
Eaz (Tracker Peak) 4018m – VK, JS, GdS, MD
PK
Byichi (Peak Dancing Boy) 4360m – AN, ST, BT, DR
The
team then headed back to BC for a much needed rest and wash before establishing
a second ABC to explore another part of the range.
The
following day we established ABC at 4234m in a high valley to the South of BC
and the
next
day climbed –
PK
Kartan Aughuze (Old Buffalo Peak) 5350m – VK, MD
PK
Tohm (The Hub) 5071m – AN, JS, GdS
PK
Uch Tubur (3 Brothers Peak) 5311m – BT, ST, DR
With
a change in the weather the following day we decided to head back to base camp
and woke up to a few inches of snow across the campsite at 3580m. In order to
maximise our time left at base camp we headed into the valley parallel and to
the west of our camp and climbed PK Minaret 4480m – AN, BT, JS, ST, DR.
The
next day we broke camp, loaded the vehicle and headed out of the main range,
back through the town of Sarytash to a small rocky range to the north. Here we
made camp and explored the rock climbing potential in the area for future
trips.
Our
last day driving back to Osh gave us all time to really appreciate the
landscape and countryside that is so culturally diverse and interesting.
Over
the course of the trip, we climbed 11 Virgin Summits in the Kyrgyzstan Pamirs
Range and apart from a couple of local shepherds who brought Kumis (fermented mares milk)
and cream, we didn’t see a soul! .
Thanks
must go to Sasha our driver for getting us into base camp, Artur our cook, for
some fantastic culinary delights and our two porters Sasha and Dima for helping
with some heavy loads up to advanced base camp.
Another
very successful ISM Kyrgyzstan Virgin Summits Expedition and already looking
forward to and making plans for next years trip!
Many
thanks for Jason Sheldrake and Ben Tibbetts for all their photo's this year.
Safe
Climbing
Ade
