The Sorcerer, Ghost Valley

The Sorcerer, Ghost Valley

Friday, 1 July 2011

Aiguille Rouge

I had a mixed weather in Chamonix last week with torrential rain all day on Saturday which also put down a massive amount of snow above 3000m. The Sunday eventially cleared late morning leaving snow & rimed up rock at the Brevent telepherique station. 100km winds had plastered the rocks high up with thick rime preventing us to head up onto the glaciers & climb the higher rock routes as planned.

Looking across from La Flegere towards the Chamonix Aiguilles

The weather improved & became sunny over the next few days, but the winds kept constant & the avalanche risks in the main Mt Blanc Massif were high.Then came some early afternoon storms of heavy downpours, thunder & lightning which ran through till the next day evenually clearing up around midday.

A view of the Grand Jorasse on th left to Mt Blanc on the right

There was one super good sunny day with decreased winds all week, climbers summited Mt Blanc via the Gouter a safe route even after a lot of snow. I couldn't see a track up over the Tacul which was no surprise given the conditions.

With the rock climbing high up still out of the question we headed into the Aiguille Rouge & enjoyed some fantastic granite climbing with short approaches, making the most of any weather windows we had.

Great climbing on the Chapelle de la Gliere, Aiguille Rouge

We climbed everyday which was amazing as one day we started with coffee & didn't headed up the lifts to Brevent before midday but still managed to squeeze in a great 6 pitch route.

Sagi enjoying some steep climbing on the Chapelle de la Gliere

Sagi climbing the classic Razor pitch on the Chapelle de la Gliere

Superb climbing on the final towers of the Clocher Cochons, Aiguille Rouge

Sagi climbing the classic steep arete on the final tower of the Clocher Cochons 

Me enjoying the rock up around Brevent, Aiguille Rouge

It ended up being a great week climbing with Sagi, considering the weather & all the limitations & look forward to next time.
PS the burgers in the Jackel & Hyde in Chamonix Sud were awesome!
This week I’ve been enjoying some time back at home getting out on the bike, climbing in Yorkshire & strimming the jungle which was our paddock only a few weeks ago!
Keeping an eye on the weather, as I'm heading back out to the Alps today – it looks like it’s been as hot as it has been back here in the UK. Next week’s weather looks fine & sunny so fingers crossed it stays that way.
Stay safe

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