We flew into Anchorage & then took a taxi up to Talkeetna. Paul Roderick owner of Talkeetna Air Taxi (TAT) then flew us into the Spires & set us down on the Tatina Glacier which became BC
We had two main objectives but unfortunately they were both out of the question - the first was on Middle Triple Peak, seen here on the right of the picture, at the southern end of the Tatina Glacier
The other was on Mt Jeffers bounding the eastern edge of the Tatina
We arrived at the same time summer did, which was great for the tan but too hot for the snow. Huge quantities of unconsolidated snow still hung around from the winter & recent heavy storms, choking gulley's & loading slopes continually avalanching & threatening our routes.
Dean started up this pitch on Mt Jeffers. Initially it was good ice, but it quickly petered out to an overhanging unconsolidated snow cone. The cone must have built up through the route continually avalanching. As we backed off & started to abseil the whole route cleaned itself out again & a massive avalanche ripped over our heads, just missing us!
We were hoping for over night freezes and a consolidation of snow but summer had arrived early and that had put pay to that - it never froze the whole time we were there.
So we decided to try the west side of the glacier & a south/east facing line to the top of a lovely looking peak I'd tried the year before.
The hardest sections of climbing were near the top of the route with some fierce dry tooling/mixed sections.
The named the new route - Beat Surrender ED2 800m