The Sorcerer, Ghost Valley

The Sorcerer, Ghost Valley

Friday, 23 September 2011

A week of Alpine rock

We headed up to the Wiwanni Hut 2470m above the village of Ausserberg 10km from Visp in the Rhone Valley

After only an hour walking we could see the hut we had great views of the Wiwannihorn and the classic East Ridge which we'd planned to climb the following day.

The Wiwanni hut & the Wiwannihorn with the Classic East Ridge in profile on the right.

That afternoon we headed over to some smaller towers called the Klettergarten Schepfipfiler with some 3/5 pitch routes on them and had a great afternoon of climbing.

In perfect weather the following day we headed up the 17 pitches that make up the East Ridge on perfect granite to the summit the Wiwannihorn. 

Andy heading up the first pitch of the East Ridge of the Wiwannihorn

Andy heading up one of the many great pitches we found on the ridge

The following day we headed further up the Rhone Valley beyond Visp & Brig, to the Furka Pass.

Once we'd worked our way up the many switchbacks that makes up the road leading to the Furka Passed we parked up & walked in to climb the Gross Furkahorn. We wanted to climb the classic East South East Ridge.

A panorama of the Gross Furkahorn (the tall spire on the left), the Galenstock in the middle, the Gross Bielenhorn & the Chly Bielenhorn on the right. 

Beautiful granite low down on the Gross Furkahorn

Andy enjoying the climbing on the Gross Furkahorn

A fantastic steep wall & arete leading to the summit of the Gross Furkahorn

Enjoying the airy exposed summit of the Gross Furkahorn

We descended & stayed the night in the Sidelen Hutte in the centre of the main range as we wanted to also climb the Gross Bielenhorn the next day.

The Sidelen Hutte with the Gross Bielenhorn towering above & the granite pinicles making up the Klien & Gross Kamel's marking the Bielenlucke Pass

Me enjoying working the steep ground on the Gross Bielenhorn

Again just immaculate granite climbing on the Gross Bielenhorn

The Furka' just such a great place to climb - big long routes on perfect granite with super easy access in an Alpine environment - what more could you want!

We headed back down the Rhone Valley, towards Martigney and on back to Leysin. The last day we wanted to climb the classic Miroir D'Argentine. An amazing limestone cliff & summit close to Villars above the village of Solalex.

The huge face of the Miroir D'Argentine with the 2 classic routes marked
Red - Voie Normal, Green - Direct
Both routes are around 12/14 pitches long & moderate in grade.

Both routes finish at the col and then climb the steep & knife edge ridge left which then leads on up to the higher summit of the Argentine.

Looking down the slabs from a belay at the col. You can just see the top couple of pitches before the face steepens & drops away below.

A great view from the summit of the Argentine looking back across the summit ridge towards the col where many of the routes finish. You can see clearly the top couple of slab pitches leading to the col.

We had a fantastic week of weather & climbing and I can't wait to get back up to the Furka!

Safe climbing


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