The Sorcerer, Ghost Valley

The Sorcerer, Ghost Valley

Tuesday, 11 March 2014

The Classic Ginat on the North Face of Les Droites

The Ginat IV 5, 1000m on the North Face of Les Droites

FA 24 July 1978 by Jean Ginat, Gilles Modica, Jean-Pierre Simond and Jean-Marc Troussier
Note - Jean Ginat died during the descent to the Glacier de Talefre 

The Ginat on the North Face of Les Droites

The Ginat on the North Face of Les Droites


Route - The Ginat
Grade - IV 5 (TD)
Length - 1000m
Mountain - Les Droites
Aspect - North Face
Approach - from the Argentiere Hut

After crossing the Bergshrund you have 2 options, if conditions permit head straight
up the ice runnel to the bottom of the central icefield (sections of 80 degrees and
about 200m) or head rightwards into the large gully and from the top of this head out
leftwards via the ‘Messner Ramp’ (sections of 80 degrees and often mixed climbing).
If the the Ginat is in condition then the ‘Messner Ramp is the reliable option.

The Central icefield is about 350m in height after leaving the ‘Messner Ramp’ and is about 60 degrees

At the top of the icefield you climb the crux which is a steep 85 degree exit pitch taking the left most of the 3 exit gullies.

From the top of this pitch climb directly up and right over 80 degree mixed terrain to reach a small icy bay. Continue up from here climbing short steep sections of ice/mixed terrain for about 200m

Then climb the final steep exit pitch (up to about 85 degrees) which leads up to the obvious snow couloir and on to the ‘Breche des Droites’ (about 100m)


From the ‘Breche des Droites’ follow the steep gully directly down the south side via about 8 abseils to the first section of glacier. From here head down and left meeting up with the upper Talefre Glacier via an abseil from rocks on the lefthand side.

A - Ginat IV 5 1000m

B - NE Face of the Signal Vallot III AD 750m
C - Au Coeur Du Monde III D 700m

D - NE Couloir IV 4 1000m

E - Fynn-Goudet Route IV D 1000m

Inspiring and a great late spring early season route when in condition.

Safe climbing


1 comment:

  1. Hi Adrian,
    did you climb the ginat recently?