The Sorcerer, Ghost Valley

The Sorcerer, Ghost Valley

Saturday, 26 January 2013

Kandersteg Topos & conditions

Beautiful weather here in Leysin today - the views are fantastic looking across to the Mont Blanc Massif.

Fantastic views today from the Grand Chalet here in Leysin

We finished the week yesterday climbing up on Oeschinenwald again just above Kandersteg village.

Colin pushing his leading again by climbing the first pitch of Namenlos grade 4+ - Kandersteg

Colin leading the 1st pitch grade 4 of 'Riese ins Reich der Eiszwerge' which continues up onto the upper wall grade III 6+M, 175m
You can just about see the steep hanging pillars above, which form the upper pitches on the upper wall of Oeschinenwald.

A climber above us tackling the crux pitch of 'Reise ins Reich der Eiszwerge' Grade III 6+M

A topo from conditions yesterday of the upper wall of Oeschinenwald
It's amazing how routes like 'Reise Integral' have been getting fatter & forming each day - fingers crossed the cycle continues & 'Riese Integral' touches down

Topo -
Green route - Reise ins Reich der Eiszwerge grade III 6+, 175m
Orange route left side - Reise Integral grade IV 6, 70m
Orange route right side - Grimm Haizahne grade III 6, 180m

The topo picture doesn't show the lower 50m pitches of ice which form on the lower wall  - You can see this though from the picture above with Colin leading' Reise ins Reich der Eiszwerge'

A topo from conditions yesterday on the upper Oeschinenwald Wall right side - Kandersteg

Topo with routes left to right -

Arbonium - grade III 4+, 180m
White Magic on Rock - grade III -6, 110m
Pingu - grade III 5+/6, 200m
Saule - grade III 6, 140m
Europussy - grade III 7+, 125m

Routes this week up on the Brietwangflue - the wall left of Crack Baby - Kandersteg
Spot the climber high up on the last pitch of Tsunamix grade IV 7M - we didn't get to chat to them but they could also have climbed Elementarteilchen grade IV 8M & finished up the steeper ice pitches of Tsunamix! - either way it's a great route & great effort.

My topo to this awesome wall, with conditions this week - routes left to right

Damokles - grade V 7+M, 315m
Tsunamix - grade IV 7M, 250m
Elementarteilchen - grade IV 8M, 300m
Beta Block Super - V 7X!, 295m

Me on 'Saule' grade WI 6+ - further up the valley from both the Crack Baby wall & the Beta Block Super wall.

In the huge cave behind 'Saule' is the super classic & awesome 'Flying Circus'

A team on 'Flying Circus' grade M10, 165m - Brietwangflue , Kandersteg

'Saule' the steep pillar on the left & the line of 'Flying Circus' on the right

Relaxing in Leysin today & then heading over to Cogne tomorrow for the week...............

Sounds like the UK's had plenty of snow & cold weather this past week. The Lakes looks pretty plastered at the moment - I'm sure I'll be missing some great winter climbing conditions there!! Although can't really complain!

Safe climbing


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