A week of Alpine rock

We headed up to the Wiwanni Hut 2470m above the village of Ausserberg 10km from Visp in the Rhone Valley

After only an hour walking we could see the hut we had great views of the Wiwannihorn and the classic East Ridge which we'd planned to climb the following day.

The Wiwanni hut & the Wiwannihorn with the Classic East Ridge in profile on the right.

That afternoon we headed over to some smaller towers called the Klettergarten Schepfipfiler with some 3/5 pitch routes on them and had a great afternoon of climbing.

In perfect weather the following day we headed up the 17 pitches that make up the East Ridge on perfect granite to the summit the Wiwannihorn. 

 

Andy heading up the first pitch of the East Ridge of the Wiwannihorn

Andy heading up one of the many great pitches we found on the ridge

The following day we headed further up the Rhone Valley beyond Visp & Brig, to the Furka Pass.

Once we'd worked our way up the many switchbacks that makes up the road leading to the Furka Passed we parked up & walked in to climb the Gross Furkahorn. We wanted to climb the classic East South East Ridge.

A panorama of the Gross Furkahorn (the tall spire on the left), the Galenstock in the middle, the Gross Bielenhorn & the Chly Bielenhorn on the right. 

Beautiful granite low down on the Gross Furkahorn

Andy enjoying the climbing on the Gross Furkahorn

A fantastic steep wall & arete leading to the summit of the Gross Furkahorn

Enjoying the airy exposed summit of the Gross Furkahorn

We descended & stayed the night in the Sidelen Hutte in the centre of the main range as we wanted to also climb the Gross Bielenhorn the next day.

The Sidelen Hutte with the Gross Bielenhorn towering above & the granite pinicles making up the Klien & Gross Kamel's marking the Bielenlucke Pass

Me enjoying working the steep ground on the Gross Bielenhorn

Again just immaculate granite climbing on the Gross Bielenhorn

The Furka' just such a great place to climb - big long routes on perfect granite with super easy access in an Alpine environment - what more could you want!

We headed back down the Rhone Valley, towards Martigney and on back to Leysin. The last day we wanted to climb the classic Miroir D'Argentine. An amazing limestone cliff & summit close to Villars above the village of Solalex.

The huge face of the Miroir D'Argentine with the 2 classic routes marked

Red - Voie Normal, Green - Direct

Both routes are around 12/14 pitches long & moderate in grade.

Both routes finish at the col and then climb the steep & knife edge ridge left which then leads on up to the higher summit of the Argentine.

Looking down the slabs from a belay at the col. You can just see the top couple of pitches before the face steepens & drops away below.

A great view from the summit of the Argentine looking back across the summit ridge towards the col where many of the routes finish. You can see clearly the top couple of slab pitches leading to the col.

We had a fantastic week of weather & climbing and I can't wait to get back up to the Furka!

Safe climbing

Ade 

 

L'Index, Aiguille Rouge

Marie & I had a great day on friday climbing the classic south ridge of the Index in the Aiguille Rouge, Chamonix.

Marie Martin climbing the steep 1st pitch on the south ridge of the Index

Marie enjoying some fantastic granite climbing on the Index

Marie enjoying her 1st rock climb

Abselling from the summit of the Index

Marie cleaning up, after her 1st day on the rock

Marie had such a fantastic & exciting time on the rock, climbing outdoors has totally lit her fire. It was just great to be part of that day & enjoy it with her

Safe climbing

Ade

Chamonix this week

I'm having a great time climbing over in Chamonix, with some fantastic weather this week. 

Steve & I headed up the Mer de Glace to the Couvercle hut, to climb on the Aiguille Moine & the Aiguille Vert. 

The view of the Grand Jorasse from the Couvercle Hut

The Classic North Face of the Grand Jorasse

A fantastic panorama - Dent de Geant on the right, Dome de Rochfort, Grand Jorasse.....

Refuge Couvercle, Mt Blanc Massif

Steve Martin on an early steep pitch on the Aiguille du Moine, South Ridge Integral

Steve Martin nearing the summit of the Aiguille du Moine

Steve Martin high up on the Moine Ridge, Aiguille Vert

Steve enjoying some fantastic mixed climbing on the Moine Ridge, Aiguille Vert

After a great few days up at the Couvercle & with more of a mixed forecast we headed into the Aiguille Rouge today.

Steve enjoying some great climbing on the Clocher de Planpraz, Clocher Clocherton

Steve testing our Tyrolean! - from the SW Clocherton to the Central Clocherton

Steve enjoying the steep Central Clocherton

Safe climbing

Ade

  

Aiguille Rouge

I had a mixed weather in Chamonix last week with torrential rain all day on Saturday which also put down a massive amount of snow above 3000m. The Sunday eventially cleared late morning leaving snow & rimed up rock at the Brevent telepherique station. 100km winds had plastered the rocks high up with thick rime preventing us to head up onto the glaciers & climb the higher rock routes as planned.

Looking across from La Flegere towards the Chamonix Aiguilles

The weather improved & became sunny over the next few days, but the winds kept constant & the avalanche risks in the main Mt Blanc Massif were high.Then came some early afternoon storms of heavy downpours, thunder & lightning which ran through till the next day evenually clearing up around midday.

A view of the Grand Jorasse on th left to Mt Blanc on the right

There was one super good sunny day with decreased winds all week, climbers summited Mt Blanc via the Gouter a safe route even after a lot of snow. I couldn't see a track up over the Tacul which was no surprise given the conditions.

With the rock climbing high up still out of the question we headed into the Aiguille Rouge & enjoyed some fantastic granite climbing with short approaches, making the most of any weather windows we had.

Great climbing on the Chapelle de la Gliere, Aiguille Rouge

We climbed everyday which was amazing as one day we started with coffee & didn't headed up the lifts to Brevent before midday but still managed to squeeze in a great 6 pitch route.

Sagi enjoying some steep climbing on the Chapelle de la Gliere

Sagi climbing the classic Razor pitch on the Chapelle de la Gliere

Superb climbing on the final towers of the Clocher Cochons, Aiguille Rouge

Sagi climbing the classic steep arete on the final tower of the Clocher Cochons 

Me enjoying the rock up around Brevent, Aiguille Rouge

It ended up being a great week climbing with Sagi, considering the weather & all the limitations & look forward to next time.

PS the burgers in the Jackel & Hyde in Chamonix Sud were awesome!

This week I’ve been enjoying some time back at home getting out on the bike, climbing in Yorkshire & strimming the jungle which was our paddock only a few weeks ago!

Keeping an eye on the weather, as I'm heading back out to the Alps today – it looks like it’s been as hot as it has been back here in the UK. Next week’s weather looks fine & sunny so fingers crossed it stays that way.

Stay safe

Ade

A great week starting with the Salbitschijen

I had a fantastic 1st week out in the Alps climbing with Adrian W. We headed up the Rhone Valley & over the Furka Pass towards Andermatt, where we turned off at Goschenen Tal and into the beautiful quiet valley beyond. From here we headed up the steep hillside to the Salbit Hut at 2105m, which gave us access & great views to the Salbitschijen, an awesome granite peak with some of the best granite climbing in the Alps

A view of the Salbitschijen from the Salbit Hut

The classic South Ridge of the Salbitschijen in profile

Enjoying fantastic climbing on the South Ridge of the Salbitschijen

A view of the South Ridge above the first tower

Adrian Walter enjoying the immaculate granite

A fantastic view of the awesome 1000m West Ridge

Great climbing on the Zwillingstrum

Adrian rounding one of the great towers

One of the final towers before the climb up to the summit

Nearing the top of the South Ridge

Adrian enjoying the summit after a great climb

The Salbit Hut with the Salbitschijen behind

On the way back to Leysin we headed back over the Furka Pass & climbed some lovely granite slabs high above the massive Rhone Glacier.

Adrian climbing beautiful granite slabs with the huge Rhone Glacier behind

We stayed the night in the old medieval town of Saillon down in the Rhone Valley.

I’ve always wanted to spend the night here & I’ve driven past it many times. Saillon’s a walled town built high up on a hill above the Rhone Valley floor surrounded by vineyards. The walls & turrets are over a thousand years old and the buildings remain largely unchanged. There’s a great vibe here & we enjoyed plenty of the local wine & food before heading on to a climb close to Lavey on the way back to Leysin.

 

Adrian climbing the first steep pitch on the Pillar de Pisschevre

Adrian topping out on the first pillar

Adrian enjoying some steep face climbing on the 2nd pillar

An awesome week climbing

Ade